Wednesday, January 16, 2019

The early days of summer in Devon.

I've moved, many times, and although I'm drawn to the dynamism of city life, there's a part of me that yearns for life in the country. So after a few months in London, an escape to a farm in Devon sounded heavenly. I made arrangements with Becky, the owner of Cuckoo Down Farm, in February and in the middle of May, I found myself taking a train to Honiton (having left my licence in Ireland!) to spend a few days in the countryside - a welcome retreat from my busy life in the city.

It was a beautiful evening when, after a few wrong turns, the taxi pulled up to the farm. The farm is actually very well signposted and the owners were great at giving instruction by phone - shame neither myself nor the taxi driver were paying much attention, enrapt as we were with the winding lanes and pretty houses, barely visible through the trees.


A view of Cuckoo Down Farm, from the entrance
John, one of the owners, was straight out to meet me, and even took my backpack up to my safari tent, Daisy, for me (all the tents are named after plants). This gave me a chance to wander past the animals (goats, chickens, a donkey), over a wooden bridge and up the gently sloped field to the safari tent.

Inside, it was remarkable - like a country cottage - yet under a tent. Two separate bedrooms, furnished with high-quality beds and linen. The living and dining area was sizeable, easily enough for a couple of families to take over after a day at the beach or nearby attractions. A small kitchen had everything required - a proper kettle, gas cooker top, cutlery - and separate bins for food, recyclables and unrecycled waste. Cuckoo Down is intent on sustainability and friendly to the environment, so all guests are requested to bring their waste to the compost and rubbish bins at the bottom of the field where the tents and yurts are situated. Points from me! They'd also left a complimentary bottle of wine and warm wishes for my stay. This beats the luxury of 5 star hotels for me - it really feels like they care about their guests here.
Comfy sofa bed and part of dining table

After spending most of the day travelling, I was sweaty and tired, so I laid down on the sofa (bed) to restore my energy. A short while later, Becky arrived on horseback to say hello and check that I was settling in nicely. She let me know about some of the local area and pointed out the helpful book they have put together with details of local pubs, restaurants, culture and places to see. It is packed with things to do - you could easily spend two weeks here. Cuckoo Down Farm is only 12 miles from Exeter, and about 5 miles from the nearest town, but there are many things to do within driving distance, so it's highly recommended you bring your car. I got by fine on foot and public transport, but I never got to the beach due to no car - even though it was blisteringly hot. I considered hitching, but since it was mid-week, I thought I was unlikely to find a car headed that way.

After discovering the local shop (reasonably well-stocked, but pricey) and wandering around the farm a bit, I sat down and simply watched the sun set from the deck.

It was utterly peaceful, with the only sound being the sheep in surrounding fields and birds singing in the treetops.

When darkness falls, there are lanterns to light the way to the compost toilet (right beside your safari tent) or for reading out on the deck. These can be charged back up at the entrance to the farm, and there are spares awaiting (there's also room to charge your phones/iPads), fridges for each tent/yurt so you can store chilled goods.

Next morning, gentle sounds of wildlife drifted into my tent and after a wonderful night sleep, I emerged in the dewy mist to wander through the woods at the back of tent. The scent of honeysuckle hangs in the air here and a few lungfuls will make you expel all the dirt of the city. There are a few trails through the woods that are easy enough for children, but be careful of ticks - I was fine, but I had my hiking boots and good socks on (even in the heat). I also ordered a dinner off Paul and Carolyn Bellinger, who have a small local farm, who are recommended on the Cuckoo Down Farm website. Proper, home cooked food that was steaming hot on arrival - the cottage pie was huge and hearty and the sticky toffee pudding was delightfully indulgent (and so far from the M&S or Sainsbury's packaged versions you get!) It's also very reasonable and delivered right to your tent, so if you're out on your feet, dinner is sorted.

I spent 4 days on the farm and it's been years since I felt so refreshed. I managed to explore both the local town, Ottery St. Mary and Exeter city, with the local bus that runs from a garage about 15 minutes away. Both were well worth a visit, with special mentions to The Rusty Pig,   where I had an exquisite meal cooked for me from just a brief conversation with the Chef, and the Glorious Art House; I stopped in for Wi-fi and found great food, friendly staff and a charming outdoor area hidden from passersby. On the other days I simply went for walks around the farm and nearby. In the evenings, I didn't feel compelled to go to the nearby pubs, simply sitting/lying outside with my book (and a cheeky glass of wine) was enough for me. For someone who is always on the go, this place gently put a stop to that. I would happily spend 4 days every week here.

For my first foray into the countryside of Devon, I was probably a bit spoilt! The chickens ran to greet me every morning (I must have smelled like food) and the sun shone almost every moment. Only on the last day the temperature dropped and I set up the wood-burning stove, which made the place lovely and cosy - perfect for a rainy day playing board games (or in my case, more reading).

Chicken Run!

Morning strolls
Plant life

Spacious, private, deck

Pretty Exeter


Better than most boutique hotels!