The early days of summer in Devon.

I've moved, many times, and although I'm drawn to the dynamism of city life, there's a part of me that yearns for life in the country. So after a few months in London, an escape to a farm in Devon sounded heavenly. I made arrangements with Becky, the owner of Cuckoo Down Farm, in February and in the middle of May, I found myself taking a train to Honiton (having left my licence in Ireland!) to spend a few days in the countryside - a welcome retreat from my busy life in the city.

It was a beautiful evening when, after a few wrong turns, the taxi pulled up to the farm. The farm is actually very well signposted and the owners were great at giving instruction by phone - shame neither myself nor the taxi driver were paying much attention, enrapt as we were with the winding lanes and pretty houses, barely visible through the trees.

A view of Cuckoo Down Farm, from the entrance

John, one of the owners, was straight out to meet me, and even took my backpack up to my safari tent, Daisy, for me (all the tents are named after plants). This gave me a chance to wander past the animals (goats, chickens, a donkey), over a wooden bridge and up the gently sloped field to the safari tent.

Inside, it was remarkable - like a country cottage - yet under a tent. Two separate bedrooms, furnished with high-quality beds and linen. The living and dining area was sizeable, easily enough for a couple of families to take over after a day at the beach or nearby attractions. A small kitchen had everything required - a proper kettle, gas cooker top, cutlery - and separate bins for food, recyclables and unrecycled waste. Cuckoo Down is intent on sustainability and friendly to the environment, so all guests are requested to bring their waste to the compost and rubbish bins at the bottom of the field where the tents and yurts are situated. Points from me! They'd also left a complimentary bottle of wine and warm wishes for my stay. This beats the luxury of 5 star hotels for me - it really feels like they care about their guests here.

Comfy sofa bed and part of dining table

After spending most of the day travelling, I was sweaty and tired, so I laid down on the sofa (bed) to restore my energy. A short while later, Becky arrived on horseback to say hello and check that I was settling in nicely. She let me know about some of the local area and pointed out the helpful book they have put together with details of local pubs, restaurants, culture and places to see. It is packed with things to do - you could easily spend two weeks here. Cuckoo Down Farm is only 12 miles from Exeter, and about 5 miles from the nearest town, but there are many things to do within driving distance, so it's highly recommended you bring your car. I got by fine on foot and public transport, but I never got to the beach due to no car - even though it was blisteringly hot. I considered hitching, but since it was mid-week, I thought I was unlikely to find a car headed that way.

After discovering the local shop (reasonably well-stocked, but pricey) and wandering around the farm a bit, I sat down and simply watched the sun set from the deck.

It was utterly peaceful, with the only sound being the sheep in surrounding fields and birds singing in the treetops.

When darkness falls, there are lanterns to light the way to the compost toilet (right beside your safari tent) or for reading out on the deck. These can be charged back up at the entrance to the farm, and there are spares awaiting (there's also room to charge your phones/iPads), fridges for each tent/yurt so you can store chilled goods.

Next morning, gentle sounds of wildlife drifted into my tent and after a wonderful night sleep, I emerged in the dewy mist to wander through the woods at the back of tent. The scent of honeysuckle hangs in the air here and a few lungfuls will make you expel all the dirt of the city. There are a few trails through the woods that are easy enough for children, but be careful of ticks - I was fine, but I had my hiking boots and good socks on (even in the heat). I also ordered a dinner off Paul and Carolyn Bellinger, who have a small local farm, who are recommended on the Cuckoo Down Farm website. Proper, home cooked food that was steaming hot on arrival - the cottage pie was huge and hearty and the sticky toffee pudding was delightfully indulgent (and so far from the M&S or Sainsbury's packaged versions you get!) It's also very reasonable and delivered right to your tent, so if you're out on your feet, dinner is sorted.

I spent 4 days on the farm and it's been years since I felt so refreshed. I managed to explore both the local town, Ottery St. Mary and Exeter city, with the local bus that runs from a garage about 15 minutes away. Both were well worth a visit, with special mentions to The Rusty Pig,   where I had an exquisite meal cooked for me from just a brief conversation with the Chef, and the Glorious Art House; I stopped in for Wi-fi and found great food, friendly staff and a charming outdoor area hidden from passersby. On the other days I simply went for walks around the farm and nearby. In the evenings, I didn't feel compelled to go to the nearby pubs, simply sitting/lying outside with my book (and a cheeky glass of wine) was enough for me. For someone who is always on the go, this place gently put a stop to that. I would happily spend 4 days every week here.

For my first foray into the countryside of Devon, I was probably a bit spoilt! The chickens ran to greet me every morning (I must have smelled like food) and the sun shone almost every moment. Only on the last day the temperature dropped and I set up the wood-burning stove, which made the place lovely and cosy - perfect for a rainy day playing board games (or in my case, more reading).

Chicken Run!

Morning strolls

Plant life

Spacious, private, deck

Pretty Exeter

Better than most boutique hotels!

Part 11:Pub-crawling around the World - The Valley House, Achill, Ireland.

Far from just a bar, The Valley House in Achill is steeped in history, a previous Daniel Craig movie set and a top rated Lonely Planet hostel. I've mentioned it in many blog entries but never under pubcrawling. Now I'm correcting this clear oversight. It's difficult to pinpoint one particular night in this incredible venue as I've spent so many there but here are memories and reasons you should visit.

Slievemore at sunset, can be seen from the end of the lane at the Valley House

The location - Firstly, it's on Achill island, which is beautiful anytime of year but particularly in the summer months. The bar itself is hidden by trees, surrounded by a pitch and putt course and a small lake. It's less than a fifteen minute walk to the nearest immaculate and often deserted beach. It's courtyard captures stunning sun in the late afternoon and it's wonderful to while away a few hours basking in the sun there. I remember a particular bank holiday Monday in June 2007, guitars were out as was the sun, tunes aplenty and good company - it made for a perfect evening. Of the friends I spent it with, three live in different countries now, one is married with a child and one I have long since lost contact with.

The music. I can't remember many nights without music in this place, for me it's the first place I think of when I hear "session". From regulars who show up with their guitar to visiting musicians with banjo's, flutes, violins or crystal-clear voices - I have never heard such a diverse amount of talent in any other venue, and here you don't even pay for it. Even the owner, Pat and his wife, Alice, are great musicians and the "sesh" is encouraged every night. There are people who have been joining in the sessions here for over 30 years (including my own Dad) when Pat's father, Roger (RIP) ran the place. If you want a bar with music in Ireland, you can't go wrong here. My own favourite memories centre around jamming with my Dad when we've been here together, particularly August bank holiday 2012 and 2013. Hearing an ensemble version of "The Weight" with impeccable harmonies still resounds from 2008 and a version of "There is a Light that will never go out," will always remind me of nights in the Valley House.

Regulars taking part in the "sesh" one summer night

An inexpensive bed can be stumbling distance from the bar. In the cooler months of the year (of which there are many in Ireland), it is nice to stay in the warm confines of the Valley House after a few pints of Guinness (or whatever you're having). It is advisable to book ahead for holiday weekends - i.e St Patricks Day, Easter, Hallowe'en etc. The Hallowe'en party is normally great craic. Music as always and an array of creative costumes, from Slash (Guns N'Roses) to a French courtesan (portrayed by a man), Robin Hood to Sponge-Bob. It's great to be able to crawl up the stairs and not out into the freezing night, particularly in October or March - or even sometimes May!

The Guinness must be mentioned. It was the bank holiday weekend in October 2006 and a group of us were staying in the Valley House, sharing the 12-bed dorm (great fun, as you can imagine). Åine , a friend, was buying a round for everyone and was insisting that her friend's boyfriend, John, didn't need another pint of Guinness. I had been on the vodka most of the day and actually had a pain from it. John and Åine went back and forth over this and eventually she included him in the round. At this point, John looked over at me and said "You have to drink this pint, I can't." That was my first Guinness. After a sip, it eased the pain I had in my tummy and I wondered why I hadn't been drinking it all weekend! Since I have travelled to many countries, drank Guinness in a number of Irish bars and around Ireland but I haven't found anywhere with a pint like the Valley. In the final stages of the drive from Dublin, I salivate at the thought of the pint that will soon follow.

Ambience: 10/10
Cost: $$ (I haven't been in awhile but by memory a pint of Guinness is around EUR4.40, you must try one!)
Food: Now renowned around the county for it's stonebaked pizza, sometimes other food is offered. Always good quality pub grub and great after a day at the beach or a few hours whiled away in the pub. Reasonably priced.
Location: You will need a car to get here. It's located in Dugort on Achill Island and public transport isn't very accessible. There are some taxis on the island.
Toilets: Well maintained and cool on nights where the bar gets very warm.
Overall: If you don't visit here you're missing a genuine hidden gem and my favourite bar in the whole world.


Their own website has more photos, details of upcoming events and information.
/http://www.valley-house.com/

Part 9 - Pub-crawling around the World - Edible Jazz, Pai, Thailand

See - a little too dedicated to kitsch backpacker-ville-ness

I headed to Pai in March 2014 after many recommendations from friends. Although I can't say that Pai blew me away as it seemed to do others, it is a peaceful place to visit and seeing the canyon, waterfalls etc is a lovely way to spend a few days. It kind of takes itself a little seriously as a backpacker haunt, and the whole place appears to cater for this, which I found a little odd, but I did come across Edible Jazz and that made quite a bit of difference.

I wouldn't have found this place only a fellow traveller told me about it before I visited Pai. It's set off one of the night market walking streets so I wandered down after some street food and a delicious rotee.

The place itself is quite rustic, there is some seating and hammocks off to one side (lucky if you get those - I never saw them free!) but you can also sit at low tables, on cushions or mats on the floor. I ordered my vodka and coke and sat on a bench at a table, where I was joined by a friendly Malaysian girl. We had arrived just in time for the live music, which turned out to be a treat.

Pai seems to be visited by many musicians, which is never a bad thing, and people can pitch up for open mic night or some seem to get residencies in this place (and I'm sure others). That night a gentleman called Tik was playing, he started with a few acoustic numbers without vocals, and he was a pretty good guitarist. When he started to sing, I was pleasantly surprised, as for some reason I didn't think he could! He prefers a style like Bob Dylan, but his voice was more tuneful and I enjoyed his versions of Jackson Brown and Beatles numbers amongst others. I tired out quickly that first night after hiking in the canyon and the music was lulling me to sleep so I decided to return the following night a little later, to enjoy more of the music.

Tik was playing again, which was great, and this time I sat on the floor at one of the low tables, where I was joined by a purple cat (surreal things happen when you travel), he obviously was enjoying the tunes too.

See, a purple cat, no hallucinatory drugs required.

The only bum note on this night was being the subject of some smart remarks by a girl at the bar, not a member of staff. When I ordered my vodka, she suggested that I don't like to taste my drinks because I ordered it with coke and she had some comments on my hair too. "Who can afford to get highlights when they are travelling? Mustn't be spending it on the good things to see." I'm not sure why I was a target at that particular moment, but I sensed she saw me as some competition as she eagerly swooped on any unsuspecting male as they approached the bar and hungrily eyed up those who sat far away. It certainly takes all types. If you do happen to know a German girl with attitude who was passing through Pai in early March, do tell her I said hi.

Tik, doing what he does

Shortly afterwards, a quiet woman from behind the bar came out and pulled up a stool beside Tik. When she started to sing, I was taken aback. I have never heard a voice like this, except in recordings. She had that wonderful, rich tone like Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holiday. It was such a surprise but a wonderful one!

Later, I actually got to have a chat to Tik and spent the rest of the time with his sister and her boyfriend.  Tik regaled with some stories of playing around the world and invited me back for open mic night. I'm pretty sure he's gone now, but maybe I'll revisit Pai again for open mic night ;)

If you visit Pai, put this on your list. Chilled and Tuneful.


Ambience: 9/10 - The place has hammocks. It wins on this alone.
Price: 100bht vodka & mixer, 60bht beer (pretty reasonable)

Food: I didn't partake of the food, given that there was street food in abundance nearby but my friends did and it looked pretty good.

Location: Chaisongkram road, just off the night market street.
Toilets: Pretty rustic, and you have to leave the bar to the left to get to them, but clean and with toilet paper. Actual toilets, as opposed to squat toilets.

Overall: A lovely, unpretentious place to while away a few hours, strange, judgemental traveller types notwithstanding ;)

Pub-crawling around the world: A cosy little wine bar in Luang Prabang

I wouldn't consider myself a wine snob - I'm pretty much an ABC girl - "Anything But Chardonnay" but I do love a good Sancerre when the budget stretches, as I've mentioned before. Unfortunately, when backpacking, budget is a huge concern, but also - it can be pretty fruitless searching for a good bottle of wine in less cosmopolitan parts of Asia. I'd heard that Luang Prabang, with it's French influence, could be an exception. Thus after a few weeks in Thailand, where it was hard to find anything BUT Chardonnay, I was eager to sample a proper glass of wine.

It was New Year's Day, I wasn't feeling too seedy but my body knew it had been out the night before so I was going to take it easy. After buying a huge street dinner for 10, 000kip (Less than 90 cent) I wandered down the street, soaking up the tranquility of Luang Prabang and people watching, I was enticed into a bar by the wine cellar on display and some comfortable street seating(wooden tables and small armchairs).

The waiter was very friendly and attentive, and I found a Pinot Grigio on the menu that they would serve by the glass. It was 35, 000 kip, which is expensive by Laos standards (a beer is usually 8-10,000kip) but hey, that's still half of what I would pay at home, or in Australia. The wine glass was large and it was a generous serving, so I sat, watching LP go by, on the first day of the New Year in a brand new country.

As happens, I got chatting to an older couple at the table beside me. They were German and travel to Laos every couple of years. Now, they felt, it had gotten too touristy - although I found it a welcome relief, and much quieter from other backpacker hotspots. She was intrigued that I travelled alone and that I hadn't yet 'settled' but I explained that I wasn't done seeing the world yet and I really thought the best way to do that was on my own. They told me all about their sons in college and their own travels, and we talked about wine for a little while. He chose a cigar from the box the waiter brought out and I ended up ordering another glass before closing time.

Luang Prabang has a curfew, which I found most interesting and probably a good idea. Bars all close by 11.30 and indeed many of them are shut long before. It is a public offence to be noisy on the street after this and certainly drunken groups are hard to find. I was informed of a late 'club' by my hostel receptionist, if I so wished, but I felt after my crazy few days in Chiang Mai, and a trip down the Mekong planned for early the next morning, I was best to retire. Was 2014 changing me already?

Although I have searched Google, I can't find the name of this bar! I've put the location below, but it may have to remain my little secret, until I return - hopefully by 2015 :)

Ambience: 8/10 - LP is not a party town, but for a good wine at a reasonable price, and probably to make friends, this is a good place.

Food: Not available.

Location: On Sisavangvong Street about half way down, although I can't remember the name

Toilets: None, I had to wait until I got home

Overall: A small place but definitely a 8.5/10 for it's wine list. Lost points for no toilets.