5 places worth a visit on your travels

To me, everywhere is worth visiting once. I have found enjoyment in every place I've been and just because there are places that I won't rush back to doesn't mean that I regret visiting there in the first place. Then there are these places, which are truly special. They might be a little trickier to get to, or you may not have them on your list for a variety of reasons (distance from other places, budget, transport options etc) but I highly recommend (read: suggest you visit or you are missing out!). I either have gone back already, will go back or a little part of my soul will pine for them.

1. Achill Island, Co. Mayo, Ireland. I have raved in previous blog entries about Achill, my favourite place in the whole world. Why should you put Achill on your list? Its scenery will take your breath away, from the craggy  rock formations, many pristine beaches perfect for surfing, kite-surfing or just a swim, magnificent cliffs rising into modest mountains that are well worth a hike, delicious seafood and Irish music sessions in many pubs waiting to serve creamy pints of Guinness. I can't extol the virtues of this island enough. From the Atlantic Drive to Keem Bay, barbecues under the shadow of Slievemore at sunset, a good walk to knock out the cobwebs on Keel beach and settling in at the Valley House for a pint and great tunes - it's hard to beat and I'm sure you'll agree.

Slievemore at sunset

The writers Graham Greene and Heinrich Boll spent time living on the island and many an artist has taken up residence there.

How to get there: Train from Dublin to Castlebar, then 1 hour bumpy bus journey to Achill Sound, or hitch - plenty of friendly locals and travellers pick up on the road from Castlebar to Achill.





2. Trakai, Lithuania. Never heard of it? Probably not but it's fantastic. Only a stone's throw from the capital of Vilnius, which is also worth a visit, Trakai is definitely budget-friendly and worth a visit for it's Gothic castle (with unique architecture for Eastern Europe), the bridge, the maze (yes, a maze you can get lost or found in!), a range of outdoor activities - including sailing and rowing and the fact that it's a national park. It's been quite a few years since I visited (hint: I was a teenager at the time) but it still pops up in my dreams. Grab some local food for a picnic beside the lake. If you wish to do more than a day trip you can get apartments for less than EUR40 a night.

Image from TraveloLithuania.com

How to get there: From Vilnius, there are regular buses every 20 mins or so. There are also trains for the short journey.





3. Koh Chang, Trat Province, Thailand.

Koh Chang is definitely growing in popularity but it's still much cheaper than most of the Thai islands, such as Koh Samui or Phuket. Don't expect the karst formations that you'll find on the Andaman islands, but there are plenty of picture perfect beaches here with far less crowds than the famous spots on other islands. It's pretty hilly and is great to explore (be careful of the wildlife in the jungle) and you can also hop onto other, even less visited islands from there. If you really want the 'backpacker' feel you can stay at Lonely Beach, where the nightlife is anything but lonely. Massages start at around EUR5, accommodation can be as cheap as EUR8 per person sharing (even in a double room) and a wide range of cuisine can be found on the island. I recommend Kai Bae beach, for location and the beach.

Me, a swing, Kai Bae beach.

How to get there: We got burned on our trip because the internet doesn't always tell the truth! Well, information changes, I guess. If you are coming from Bangkok, it is recommended to get to the Ekkamai bus station EARLY (and/or book in advance) and get a bus that leaves before noon. It takes about 4 and a half hours to Trat. Some buses go directly to the pier where boats leave from, others just to Trat and you have to share songtheaws (they resemble pick-up trucks with benches in the back) to the port. The last boat to the island leaves at 7pm. The boat takes about 30 minutes to cross and then you will have to pay about 150bht to get to whichever resort you're staying in.

There are also buses from near Victory Monument in Bangkok to Trat and Koh Chang, they leave hourly but once again, be aware that due to demand there may only be 2 or 3 buses running rather than hourly.

http://iamkohchang.com is a good website if you're planning to travel there.

4. Tarife, Southern Spain. Forget Gibraltor (seriously, it's not a nice place) and go a bit further down the road to the charming town of Tarife, which is also the southernmost tip of Spain. Although it barely gets a mention in guidebooks and isn't the prettiest of port towns, it is a haven for kite surfers and also offers pristine white beaches both on the Mediterranean and Atlantic Oceans (the two meet here) and there are wonderful views across to Morocco. There's the Moorish Castillo de Guzman el bueno fort to visit and the Church of San Mateo plus plenty of lovely tapas places to eat for under EUR10. It is definitely worth a weekend trip if you're interested in geography or history.

Med on the left, Atlantic on the right

How to get there: The nearest airport is Gibraltor, but Malaga is only an 1 1/2 hours away so you can see more of the Costa del Sol before taking in Tarife or plan your trip from there.  The easiest thing is to hire a car (pretty inexpensive - from EUR45 per week) but you can get a bus from Malaga. There are also regular buses from Gibraltor and Algeciras.












5. Kaikoura, South island, New Zealand. Last, but by no means least. There are so many places to get to in New Zealand but I've noticed that this one is sometimes missed. I have no idea why. Kaikoura is known primarily for year round whale watching, and it's absolutely worth it. Although I missed the money shot (the tail raised out of the water) I did so because watching it took my breath away. There are also large seal colonies in the area, fantastic to watch, even from a bus and dusky dolphins out at sea. Even though I visited in peak season, the small town wasn't very busy, which is nice for a break when travelling. You can see a longer post I wrote on a local bar/eatery here.

Sunset on the beach

How to get there: There are regular buses from Picton, which take around 2 and a half hours, whilst buses from Christchurch take only slightly longer and fares are very reasonable (you can get buses from NZD$1 in Christchurch, whilst it's around NZD$15 from Picton).

Kaikoura is not a cheap destination, although if you're already in New Zealand you're probably aware. Still, if you're on a backpacking budget it's probably a good idea to set a little extra aside for the even the basics here.

The walkway at 7am, beautiful mountains in the distance.

Realistically, I could put so many places on this list but these were the ones that I see mentioned least online, that were special to me at the time and still remain in my mind. Where are your places? I'd love to hear so I can add them to my list.

Rotorua - Not just a place with an unusual odour ....

Yes, when stepping off the bus in Rotorua, the first thing you will notice is the sulphuric scent on the air. It's a little startling at first and although you won't quite get used to it (well, certainly not in a day - the length I spent there), it's not terribly unpleasant. It's unusual, but the geothermal hotbed that causes the smell is definitely something to explore.

Rotorua is classed as a city, but I would call it a town. I found it rather quaint, set beside the lake of the same name with low-rise buildings. We were dropped off outside the local iSite, NZ tourist offices. The staff were super helpful and stored my backpack for the day for a small fee (It closes at 7pm though and my bus was at 11.15pm). After getting some info, I headed out to Te Puia, a Maori Cultural Park not far from town. I managed to get a bus just around the corner from the iSite and I was at the centre in less than twenty minutes.

Once more, the friendliness of the Kiwi people was displayed by the woman selling tickets. She asked me lots of questions about travelling solo as a woman and she said I was very brave. Then, she gave me half price tickets to the Maori concert which takes place a couple of times daily!

I decided to have a wander around myself first before taking a guided tour. One of the most important things about Te Puia is that it's a place of learning and preservation. Customs of the Maori tribe are in use and taught to Maori students from tribes across New Zealand from weaving to stone carving. Thus, all the carvings onsite are truly Maori and faithful to time-honoured tradition.

During the first part of the tour we were brought up to see the famous Pohutu geyser. This was truly a sight to behold: going off approximately every hour and lasting for upto twenty minutes, this is the largest active geyser in the Southern Hemisphere and it certainly gets your attention. I was mesmerised by it. A natural wonder of the world. The photograph doesn't do justice to how it dwarfs you and the heat can be felt from 10 metres away!

There's quite a lot of geothermal activity here, covering 60 hectares, with over 500 geothermal spots. Even on a cold day, I can't imagine you'd feel it here; there's steam rising from everywhere!

After an hour or so of exploring the geothermal landscape and marvelling at hot springs (that are far too hot to bathe in), we returned to Te aronui a rua, the meeting house where the concert would take place.

A woman came out to greet us, with the typical "Kia Ora!" and advised us on the etiquette of the show we were about to witness and be a part of. A man in the audience was chosen as chief, and we all approached the house behind him, as is customary.

They took us through songs and stories, displaying dances and the infamous haka (with some volunteers from the audience!). Some of the strapping young Maori men weren't hard on the eye either! It was great show and well worth the price of the ticket. I'd be really interested in going to the night time show if I ever return.

The Haka

After visiting the word carving and weaving workshops, I took my last wander around the landscape part of the park and headed back into town. I was very lucky to be picked up by French and German girls who had a car rented for the day and who I'd spoken briefly to at Te Puia.

I grabbed some fish and chips for NZ$12 at a quiet cafe on the main street, about two blocks from the iSite, although I can't remember it's name. It was also conveniently close to my next port of call, The Polynesian Spa. I got an unlimited pass for the Adult Pools for NZ$25 and headed in to bathe myself softer than a furry blanket. It's truly blissful in there with a variety of pools to choose from and temperatures ranging from 37 deg Celsius right upto 42 deg. I didn't stay in that one too long!

The Priest Pools, with the lake in the background

My favourite pool was the Priest Spa pool right by the lake, so birds were flying by and providing a chorus as the sun went down. It was a real treat to bathe in the hot spring waters and wonderful to ease the muscles after a few bus rides.

After touring the seven pools a few times, I decided to grab a snack and head upto the iSite to wait for my bus. Rotorua is absolutely deserted at night so there was nowhere to wait and I didn't see a bar nearby where I could have chilled for an hour before the overnight bus to Wellington arrived. Thus I was a very weary traveller boarding for my long journey (8 hours) to my next stop.

PART 7: Pub-crawling around the world - Minus 5, Queenstown, New Zealand

As well as all the brilliant outdoor activities to do in Queenstown, it has a really buzzy nightlife. I sampled quite of the bars around the town celebrating my jump out of the sky but I have to write about Minus 5 since it's one of those unique experiences that you have to try once.

I had spent the day hiking in the nearby mountains, taking in the spectacular views over Queenstown and wasn't up for anything too hectic so Clara, one of my room mates, and myself booked a discount ticket to Minus 5 Ice Bar. You can buy tickets at their office, but it's twice the price and you do need to book ahead in order to enter. We used www.bookme.co.nz which has great discounts for all the activities in Queenstown and we got our entry for NZD$15 each including a cocktail.

It's located right down near the harbour, on Steamer Wharf, surrounded by other bars and restaurants. When we arrived, we were given warm winter coats, extra socks, gloves and Ugg boots to wear into the bar. I noticed the girl looking after us had an Irish accent so we got into conversation. It turned out that she was from Donegal town (where my mum comes from) and is friendly with two of my cousins, Daniel and Peadar. She had even lived with Daniel in Australia. Seriously, the world is so small!

A group of about eight of us entered the bar and to be honest, any more and it might have been cramped. Apart from the fact that the bar is made of ice, the designs are actually incredible, everything was hand-carved. It's quite fascinating that people do this as work!

The bar seems to be sponsored by Absolut Vodka, which suited me down to the ground. There was a range of fruity cocktails to choose from so I chose a blackcurrant based one, which was very tasty but rather sweet. These were served to us in tumblers made of ice, so you had to hold it in your gloved hand or suffer ice-burn.

We met some other German girls in there (Clara is from Germany) and had a little chat with them but most peoples' time is taken up posing on or with the various items carved out of ice in the bar. I got so cold I could barely speak after being in there 20 minutes but perhaps a few more Absolut cocktails would have warmed me up.

I'd definitely put it on the list of things to do but you wouldn't be spending a night here with your friends. We moved up to Winnie's for some warming beverages afterwards.

Ambience: 9/10 - Although not somewhere you will stay for long, you can't beat it for sheer coolness. (Yes, yes, I know - pun intended.)

Price: $30 per person including one cocktail, unless you buy ahead online.

Food: No food available, unless you find your appetites sated by crushed ice.

Location: Steamer Wharf, Beach Street, Queenstown
Toilets: You have to exit to use the toilets.

Overall: It is a once-off experience and definitely worth it. 9/10

Part SIX -Pub-crawling around the world: The Establishment, Wellington, New Zealand

I arrived in Wellington in the very early hours of Waitangi Day, which is New Zealand's National Holiday but it doesn't inspire the same celebrations as St. Patrick's Day or Australia Day for some reason. Kiwi's are pretty laid-back, maybe that's why?

Windy, but lovely, Wellington

Anyhow, after exploring the windy city of Wellington on this beautiful summers' day in February, joining in the modest celebrations down at the harbour for an hour or two, I decided to find a bar and sample some of the local wine, which I'm told is very similar to the Marlborough region wines.






After a little wander down the street, the Establishment looked promising and were doing $5 glasses of beer and wine for the occasion. It was also the beginning of the Wellington 7's weekends so there was much merriment and rugby-related paraphernalia strewn around the bar.

I settled in at a table with my glass of wine and was immediately pounced upon by some members of "Jay and Flynny's quiet couple." I quickly discovered that Jay and Flynny are local celebrity DJ's (I use the term celebrity loosely here) and participants had won the right do join this big 'ol Waitangi/7's/bank holiday party getting free and special drinks in many of the bars around town. A giant pub-crawl no less :) Each member was sporting a t-shirt with the tag-line (as mentioned above) emblazoned across their chest, which apparently made inebriated members of the party find each-other more attractive. I saw people launch themselves across the bar at each-other, pointing at the t-shirt like it made them part of this great club where they had free access to each-other for random snogs and couplings. I'd wager Jay and Flynny may have been inadvertently responsible for an unplanned pregnancy or two.

Still, I was enjoying the tunes and met some other new friends - the friendliest Frenchman I've ever met (and his girlfriend, so no, that wasn't why he was friendly) who had lived in Wellington for three years and had spotted me on my own (after Jay and Flynny's lot moved on for 'quiet' ones elsewhere). The resident DJ, Shaun, was amping everyone for the rugby 7's with chart tunes and anthems, he even played 'The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air' which proved surprisingly popular and I joined in with the crowd, shamelessly twerking with the rest of them.

A short while later I was back at my table with a fresh glass of wine. A group of lads entered and asked if they could sit at the other side of the table. I agreed and shortly afterward one of them, Danny, started chatting to me. I was beginning to think that Wellington people were just the friendliest in the world when Danny stuttered:
"Er, can I ask you something? It's my stag do and the lads have dares for me and I have to give a girl a lap-dance, would you mind?"
Well, what's a girl to do? I played my part  and even tried to tuck a dollar into his belt. He was mortified, it was all caught on smartphones for posterity and the stags high-fived me and bought me a vino before they left. All in all, I think I did very well out of it. Danny was very grateful and said if I was ever back in Wellington, he and his wife would be happy to accomodate me at theirs. I wasn't quite sure but it certainly reinforced my belief that Wellington people are super-friendly.

After I'd finished my wine, I figured that was quite enough excitement for one night, especially given I had a lovely single room to myself tonight and those are hard to come by whilst back-packing. I also had an early start for the ferry to Picton the next day. I reckon if I was with Jay and Flynny's lot, I'd definitely be still going. Still, it was a very happy and pocket-friendly Waitangi Day for me.

Ambience: 9/10 - The Establishment has a great vibe and the crowd ranged from 20 - 50, definitely a party place.
Price: $5 for wine and beer every day until 8pm - bargain!

Food: Food is available, and the prices were very reasonable ($10 upwards) but I didn't see anyone eating.

Location: Courtenay Place, very easy to find in Wellington.
Toilets: Clean and checked regularly. 

Overall: I had a great night here, I should award bonus points for all the friendly people that approached me! 9.5/10

12 things I learnt about me, the world and travelling whilst backpacking

Every travel blogger has the list - the ten things you learnt on the trip, and on them are some great tips for other travellers but one thing remains true - you really won't know until you do it yourself. No guidebook covers your emotions during your time on the road, and no one else can tell you what you will feel. The idea that it would all fit into a neat list is a little laughable but it definitely makes it more accessible to readers, so in pondering on my own recent travels, here's my list. It's all personal

1. You can call it lonely, or you can call it free.
Many people who have travelled speak about bad times on the road, saying it's not all good, sometimes you get homesick, things go wrong, you're reminded that life goes on without you etc, etc -
The funny thing is, there was never a time that I felt homesick - maybe because I don't know where home is anymore but mostly because I was enjoying the absolute freedom. The one time I had a rough week (being reminded that life goes on for the rest of the world) I simply couldn't dwell on it. I was in Sydney at the time, the weather was absolutely beautiful (except one day of pissing rain) and there was so much to see, do, explore and enjoy that I quickly realised that although life goes on elsewhere - I'm out here living it and how cool is that?

(Do I look bothered in this pic??)

2. Big Bottles of water are the way forward.
Seriously, when you're on a budget in Oz and NZ, stock up on big bottles of water from the supermarket. You can get them for $1, the 500ml are approx $3 or more each time if you buy in a local shop, and if it's summer - you're gonna need a hell of a lot of water. So, if you are long term travelling, invest in a refillable bottle - preferably somewhere cheap. I had a sturdy water bottle that saw me through a few countries, I just always made sure it was empty when I got to customs in the airport. Yes, liquids have to be under 100ml - but they don't mind empty 500ml bottles! Seriously, it's such a small thing that you forget but if you're in Oz/NZ for a month or two, this will actually save those precious pennies.

3. The Kindle app really made my life better.
I'm a paperback/hardback book girl. Every trip I take, I've normally got at least two books and generally end up buying one at the airport. Backpacking, this wasn't going to be an option. I downloaded the Kindle app to my Samsung and it was great on so many occasions. When delayed at an airport but had free wifi, I downloaded new books, looked at free stuff, etc. When adjusting to a new timezone it was time to download some more or finish a new one. Queues anywhere became completely stress-free because I had time to catch up on reading - which wasn't happening when I was out experiencing everything else. I've finally come around to the idea that technology really can improve my life.

4. Being flexible makes everything easier
I'm normally a big planner, spreadsheets, lists etc. This fell away when I started travelling because there is no point. I stayed longer in some places, shorter in others, sat at tables with people I normally wouldn't dream of, shared food on buses with complete strangers and I also began to accept that no one, anywhere, runs to my schedule, and I kind of liked that. It taught me a valuable lesson in life - things really are only a problem if you make them a problem. It's plastered on all sorts of self-help and positivity sites but everything is really about your attitude. I also had to pay to change many flights, book other ones etc. So, my advice to anyone else is - get the MOST flexible RTW ticket you can, because anything you lock down is likely to change - and you can do without the $150-plus change fees, even if you don't care so much about them anymore. (When I got home, I realised that I may have been flexible but my credit card isn't so much!).

5. One nice dress is a must on the packing list.
I made a silly mistake when I went to Sri Lanka, assuming that because I was volunteering for a month in a charity that I wouldn't need anything too dressy. How wrong I was! After only two days there I was invited to an evening with international sports stars and the following night we went to watch an orchestra perform. I was really lucky that I had *just* met a great Aussie girl who happened to have a similar body type to me, and that is unusual. She lent me a dress for the first night and I winged it the second night but there were many times I felt underdressed. It's fine if you're just island-hopping but there may come a time that a nice outfit will come in handy.

Thanks CJ for the dress!

6. Make friends with people completely different to you.
I normally wouldn't dream of socialising with anyone much younger than me, being as I'm not really that young  anymore (sad to say!) however I struck up a wonderful friendship with an 18 year old German girl in New Zealand, and we really 'got' each other! Elsewhere, I had some brilliant nights out with two other girls who hadn't even started college yet and it all reminded me that age is just a number when you're travelling. I was never treated as 'older' and even when people were much older than me, I realised that we're all in the same boat, having these new, crazy experiences. I felt even freer around younger people to do crazy things as they absolutely don't judge (something that happens when you're stuck in a rut in Dubai or elsewhere). It lead to some absolutely crazy nights in Sydney and Queenstown and they are great memories. I did draw the line at having a dalliance with a particularly 'hot' 19 year old guy, but maybe I shouldn't have!!

Jessica, myself and Nicole at Wake Up! in Sydney - one of those crazy nights!

7. If you've been up one tall building, you've been up them all.
Of course there are a few cities where the tall building is a must - I'd probably say Kuala Lumpur, as it's the Petronas Towers, but funnily enough, I didn't get up that one. These usually cost a fortune, and EVERYTHING is extra - a bar of chocolate at the top is a total rip-off. I skipped it in a few places and I don't think I missed anything. I guess it's personal, but unless it's got free or half price drinks (The Marriott in Bangkok 5pm - 7pm, Ladies night champagne at the top of the Burj Khalifa in Dubai), skip it. Looking down on most cities is much the same as looking down on another and doubly skip it if the weather isn't great. I didn't climb Sydney Harbour Bridge as I thought the price was exorbitant, and I had just jumped out of a plane a week earlier for about $50 extra - not much is going to beat that.

8. How I didn't get sick travelling...
Well, my anti-malaria tabs made me throw up on the street in Bangkok (no, not a hangover) so I quit them, however I have managed quite a few countries without illness - Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia and Sri Lanka included. How? A girl in Dubai gave me this wonderful tip, take a spoonful of the tap water every day in each place you get to, it builds up your immunity. I ate local foods, salads etc, I brushed my teeth in tap water, I generally ignored much advice, if I wanted to eat it, I did. I didn't get sick. Perhaps I'm just lucky or have a great immune system but honestly - before that I used to have a dodgy tummy quite regularly and that was whilst living in Dubai, so I'm sticking to her advice. I did, however, have great travel insurance - just in case.

9. Keep a change of underwear and top in your carry-on.
Amazing when you've been 16 hours in an airport, as I was, in Malaysia.

OK, now I'm thinking of loads....but I'll probably stick them in the blog as I go along anyway. So the last three -

10. Thai bank machines charge horrendous fees, try and have cash changed or USD on you to change before you go.
Pretty self-explanatory.

11. Always have a scarf/wrap etc whilst in Asia (or for that matter, the Middle East)(or anywhere with changeable weather)(and also the plane!)
It's first and foremost about respect. If you're wandering around on foot and you want to go to a temple, you may need to cover up. Some places insist on it. I had one scarf and I had this wonderful wrap around cardi which doubled as many things and also kept me warm on planes (budget airlines with no blankets!) many times. Seriously, my most used item. It was nippy in SE Asia over Christmas, surprisingly, and that wrap was worn almost every evening. Sssh, I moved around a lot, most people wouldn't have known!

That's a wrap!

12. Plan ahead with snacks.
6 hour bus journeys can turn into 12 hours, planes get delayed, Trains may not serve food, you may be on foot for longer than you think. In Oz and NZ you can purchase food on board but it will seriously cost you. I was so lucky in Auckland that my friend's mum had kindly left out things so I could make sandwiches - otherwise I would have forked out NZ$56 (!) for the lunch onboard. I learnt that lesson and it really stood to me in other places: once we stopped for food at a completely fly-infested place - seriously you couldn't see for the flies - and there was no way I was eating there. Thankfully I had brought ritz crackers (well, something like them!), a mandarin and a bar of chocolate. I have countless stories similar to this. Perhaps this is another reason I didn't end up sick.

I'm sure I'll update and add to this but most people have their own versions - about camera batteries, SD cards, laundry bags etc. These are ones I didn't find and that meant the most to me.

PART 2 - Pub-crawling around the world: Groper's Garage, Kaikoura, New Zealand

Kaikoura is an absolutely beautiful peninsula on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand. Many visit for the wildlife - on the drive in you will see fur seals basking on the rocks, albatross flying through the air and if you go on a boat trip, you'll spot dusky dolphins and hopefully a giant sperm whale (or three, as I was lucky enough to!). It's also a great place for walking and hiking, with the Kaikoura mountains providing a stunning backdrop and aptly demonstrating the phrase "Where the mountains meet the sea." that you will notice written everywhere in this little town.
The beach in Kaikoura    

Groper's Garage was recommended to me by the owner of the FishTank Lodge, where I stayed in Kaikoura. Craig is an awesome guy, full of tips for the surrounding area and with a great sense of humour. I popped into the bar at dusk and was delighted to find a huge open fire and really comfy sofas. I loved the layout of the place and although it's quite large and bright, it felt cosy and homely on this rainy evening.

It's located on the main street, a stone's throw from the beach and surrounded by little craft and beachwear stores. There is outdoor seating with heaters too as Kaikoura can get pretty chilly, exposed as it is to the sea and with the backdrop of those snow-capped peaks.

I ordered a spaghetti carbonara from the very attractive barman (always a bonus in a venue!) and a local Sauvignon Blanc, as the Marlborough wine region is nearby and our bus journey took us through them on the way from Picton to Kaikoura. I'm glad to say that the wine was really nice and encouraged me to have a second glass. The carbonara was absolutely steaming when it arrived - a huge portion in an earthenware bowl. I managed to finish only about half of it but it was pretty tasty. Prices were a little on the high side (ranging from NZ$17 upwards for mains although light bites are cheaper) but that's how it is in Kaikoura, so if you're really low on pennies then buy before you get there and cook.

I didn't speak to any other customers there but I was reading so I was happy enough to stay on my own. I noticed one or two other solo travellers and there were groups playing pool. A few locals who worked nearby (I was eavesdropping) were popping in to arrange plans with the staff and some stayed for a drink.

I could have stayed for the night, hoping someone would break out a guitar and give me an excuse, but I had to be up extra early for whale-watching so I called it a night after two drinks but I'd love to return.


Ambience: 8/10 - obviously it would have been better for me if I was with people
Cost: $$$$$ (On the pricey side but the portions are built for sharing) Fries are NZ$8, my dish was $17, the wine was $9
Food: Really tasty, huge portions (too big for me - more suited to a huge labourer)
Location: Opposite the ocean, v.good, easy to find.
Toilets: All good.
Overall: Drop in, if only to see the handsome barman ;)

http://gropergarage.co.nz

Starting 2014 as I mean to go on.....

Another huge break in my blogging but I have very good reason. I am just waiting to board my 11th flight in less than four months, I can't count how many places I've been in each of those countries I've visited and I'm absolutely loving it, having the time of my life.

I have become an expert packer and I'm a total pro with a backpack now. It definitely took awhile but now I have it so what I need in one place is on top, or I can access it easily. Of course you can get one with all the little zips and pockets to compartmentalise but those are more expensive, no doubt about it. If you need tips on this sort of stuff I follow https://twitter.com/nomadicmatt and I find him absolutely awesome for info on the road.  I think I did ok in my original packing - two pairs of jeans,  one pair of shorts, a pair of leggings, couple of summer dresses, a rain jacket/windbreaker and waterproof hiking pants - alot of rollable items that don't crease! BRING tampons ladies, they don't seem to be available in many places in South-East Asia or Sri Lanka. If you're passing through Thailand you can buy EVERYTHING on a budget, including any pills you need for sleeplessness etc. I met a guy who arrived in Bangkok with a plastic bag, great call. Leave space, you can always buy things. The night market in Luang Prabang is great for t-shirts (surprisingly good quality), bags, gifts. You can buy hoodies in any market in Thailand. Before you leave, if you're in Europe near a Tchibo store - they have good, reasonably priced hiking shoes which have seen me through 3 mountain climb/hikes (upto 3,500m - can't vouch for above or icy conditions).

So, I rang in the New Year in Chiang Mai, Thailand beside the Iron Bridge watching more fireworks than I've ever seen (yes, even in Dubai) and a sky full of Chinese lanterns. I was surrounded by amazing people, including some family (my aunt Helen and Uncle Tony were visiting from Seoul and my cousin, Alex is now living in CM) and the whole night cost me about 8 euro, including two song-teow, a plate of food and copious amounts of alcohol. I even had a man to kiss at midnight ;)

Australia Day was spent in Perth, having a barbie beside a pool with a group of Irish people! Alot of fun but I've had more Aussie 'Straya Day's in Dubai down at Barasti. Interesting seeing a whole Irish community 20, 000km from home. Waitangi Day was fun in Wellington, less of a celebratory feel than other national holidays but some very friendly Kiwi's about nonetheless.

Chinese New Year I spent in Brisbane and it was a nice dose of culture, although I'm sure it would have been much better in Melbourne, Singapore or Bangkok.

I learnt many things about being on the road  - it's cliched to say always expect the unexpected but I can't stress it enough. There will be quibbles, mess-ups and emergencies (try overbooked hostels, buses that don't have your name on the list, running over a kerb in your friend's lovely car!!) and next time I would have an EMERGENCY fund of about $1000 (AUD/USD) for these things... but credit cards come to the rescue.

In New Zealand I've finally understood the phrase "It's not about the destination, it's about the journey."  It's the one country that taking a bus in really rewards you, I just wish I could have stopped every half hour to explore!

In Perth I had people offer to walk me two blocks to show me where I needed to get to, stop on the street for a chat, on the Gold Coast I made friend's with a cockatoo, I finally held a koala in Lone Pine Sanctuary, petted a kangaroo and on Rottnest Island I got up close and personal with a quokka, a rare marsupial with the cutest face. My experiences are increasing everyday and I honestly couldn't be happier.

I keep getting told I'm "so brave," for travelling alone (as a girl). No one seems to ask the men. This is brief but I like it - another solo female traveller
http://www.trishavelarmino.com/2014/01/an-open-letter-to-solo-female-travelers.html?utm_content=buffer25a56&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_campaign=buffer
People tell me they admire me, which is nice but really it's a little selfish and I'm ok with that. I've got to the point where I'm doing what I like in my life and I'm really embracing it. I don't regret not doing this when I was younger, now I know that you get more out of the day by getting up earlier and I'm not throwing up over the side of the boat because I drank too many shots last night and can't appreciate the dolphins. Don't get me wrong - I still party VERY hard, anyone that knows me will attest to this - I just pick and choose my times more carefully, most of the time. (There have been a few write-off days and I've been hungover in more airports in the last two months than most people have probably been in airports in the last year!)

So, I will catch up on my blogs and keep reading all of yours, but if you're going to do anything this year - book a holiday somewhere you've never been - it's not about the money - you can go 100km away in your own country and have a walking tour, and remember "Travel is the only thing you can buy which makes you richer."

A very late (but not so much for Chinese) Happy New Year.

Some cool travel peeps on twitter
@LeanItinerant
@theintlwanderer
@LiveTravelling
@Wegotwo
@Just1WayTicket