Part 12: Pub-crawling around the world - Ris Café, Rome, italy

A rugby weekend in Rome with my Dad meant one thing: Guinness would be on the menu, probably in sizeable quantities.

The revered drink - photo credit Tavis Beck

We were staying just outside the walls of the Vatican city, which we thought would be quite touristy, but in fact was quite Italian. On our first night, it seemed like our pursuit of a good pint was fruitless, wandering dark streets where cool leather-clad Italian youths smoked in the doorways of tiny cafés and run-down clubs, until we came upon a main street on our way back to our accommodation. Dad pointed out the Guinness sign glowing in the distance and I noticed his pace quicken considerably at the thought of a creamy pint.

There were a few tables outside, again mostly populated by younger Italians chatting, but when we went through the main doors it was clear that an Irish contingent in town for the weekend (or perhaps the Irish who live in Rome?) had discovered the place before us. Mid-nineties' British tunes blared from the speakers and different groups spilled out from various alcoves and rooms off the main entrance. There were two barstools empty at the bar, a surprising sight on a Friday night in any big city, so we took our perches and ordered two pints.

I was unsure at first, the bar staff seemed to be kept busy making cocktails and exhibiting their flair for mixology (and showing off to patrons) but one guy served us up our pints and they looked pretty good. I took a deep gulp and snuck a glance to the side at my Dad, to see him revelling in the cold pint with a slight grin and smiling eyes. We were onto a winner.

Over the weekend, we stopped into Ris Café every night for 'just one more' and Dad even suggested coming over to Italy when they play in Ireland to soak up the atmosphere in this bar. It was lively every time, the bar staff were friendly and although it wasn't the cheapest bar we visited, it was fairly equivalent to most bars we went to in Rome.

I didn't take any photos of the bar itself but you can find some here with some further reviews.

Ambience: 8.5/10 - it got a bit rowdy at times but was mostly good
Cost: $$ (Guinness was around EUR 6 a pint - more expensive than Dublin)
Food: the food menu looked reasonably priced compared to other places in Rome, of course Pizza is available (starting at 7.50). We didn't eat but it smelled pretty good.
Location: Piazza del Risorgimento 16, 00192 Rome, Italy
Toilets: Small and not very accessible, down the stairs
Overall: If you want a good pint when in Rome, visit Ris Café.

Not Khao-San, other places to eat and drink in Bangkok

The first time I was in Bangkok I was incredibly overwhelmed by the size of the place - the city seems never-ending and if you get up to any heights it stretches out in every direction the eye can see; the river winding through various sky-scrapers and low-lying shacks by the river. The enormity of it is still striking to me now but I've gotten to know another side of the city by now and can thoroughly understand why it offers expats a nice life.

From the Mariott Rooftop, Bangkok goes on forever

An old friend from Dubai, Becky, now calls Bangkok home. We go through long periods of not meeting up and our last meeting outside Thailand was a funny road-trip to Ennis, accompanied by a little green teddy. Yes, Becky and I do have some weird ideas of fun but we also share a very similar sense of humour and a deep bond from sharing some tricky times in Dubai. Becky's place is a far cry from Khao San Road; it's set in a pretty district of Sukhumvit, surrounded by other residences with pools and gyms and up market restaurants nearby.

I'm not a huge fan of enormous cities, probably because the city I come from, Dublin, only has a population of about a million people, which barely competes with the major metropolises of our world.
I like my cities smaller and easy to navigate. Having said that, I'm a big fan of Bangkok's various options of transport - the BTS is cheap and reliable, motor cycle taxis are ubiquitous, taxis themselves are crazy reasonable considering it's a worldwide city with an intolerable traffic problem. You can even take canal boats (not a pastime for hungover backpackers - the stench would shake even the sturdiest constitution) where you might chance upon a dead croc floating in the infected waters, true story - a friend has seen one.

So, to share some of the places I've been and liked in Bangkok, even though I fear giving too much away, it's nice to share with other travellers and for the owners to have patronage of those seeking out a different path.

If you've visited Wat Pho, which certainly is worth it from a historical perspective (It was the first university in Thailand) and to admire the colourful stupas in the courtyard, then you'll appreciate a cool drink or some food nearby. There are a number of options by the river, you can normally get a seat at Eat Sight Story, ESS to watch riverboats go by and enjoy the view of Wat Arun. It is accessed by a soi between two temples. There is also the better known The Deck, which boasts the same views and excellent food, but you may struggle to be seated.

Wat Arun at sunset

Bangkok is developing quite the cafe culture and a great spot for brunch is Gram, on Soi 49 of Sukhumvit. There's not much seating and it's probably to be avoided in the sweatier months but I had a long, lazy lunch there in March and it was very pleasant. They offer all day breakfasts and super smoothies.

I was lucky enough to be invited to Bellino wine bar and boutique, a stunningly picturesque little part of Italy in Bangkok. Go for the chorizo, stay for the reasonably priced and good (finally, good wine in Thailand!) wine.We had a lovely night there for their birthday party.

If you are pining for a bit of trivia, then you can head to pub quiz on Thursday nights at The Pickled Liver, a proper British pub which doesn't feel like it's just off Sukhumvit in Bangkok, a very unassuming joint with good pub grub.

And finally, if you're looking for a quieter Rooftop than Lebua (the rooftop scene's from the Hangover have made it a hotspot), head over to Octave at the Mariott for 360 degree views of the city. It also has great 2 for 1 cocktails between 5pm - 7pm so you can enjoy your sundowners at a more reasonable cost than most of the city.

Sorry Becky, if I've given away some of your secret spots, but not all :)

Part 10: Pub-crawling around the World: Himmel, Lonely Beach, Koh Chang

It was the height of Thai New Year, known as Songkran, we had been sprayed with water all day and we figured we were going to be wet all evening so we donned clean bikinis and headed out to see what Lonely Beach had to offer.

Ting Tong appeared to be the most popular bar on Lonely Beach and we'd stopped in the night before (which ended with me completely sozzled after only one bucket of vodka - what do they put in those buckets?) but we noticed there was a foam party advertised a little way up the street in Himmel Bar.

Himmel Bar is pretty large and at first glance appears a little classier than Ting Tong Bar, because most of it is covered by a roof. There are plenty of seating areas, both outdoor and indoor and an large dance floor, which was already playing host to a small number of patrons when we arrived. It was all feel-good music - a bit of dance, some 90's and 00's hits thrown in for good measure. I seem to remember "I've got 5 on it" and also some Kylie! The bar staff were all friendly and buckets were on special for 150baht, as seems the norm on Lonely Beach. Himmel Bar also offers a variety of shots and cocktails.

My friend Jess and I had picked up some new friends, lone travellers Joe and Anna (I remember travelling alone and people NOT talking to me), in Ting Tong bar and we made some more friends in Himmel Bar before the foam got too thick. We ran into some Spanish guys we had met on the ferry over to the island and there was even an old, bearded dude in a cowboy hat - everything one needs for a crazy night in Thailand. So, with buckets in tow we began venturing to dance in the foam….

Jess got involved!

The night progressed with more and more foam, everyone spinning a little faster, a little wilder…
Jess getting cheeky with everyone that would talk to us and pretty much warning me off any man that approached, although she allowed me brief periods to dance with our new German friend, Joe, when we weren't having friendly foam fights with anyone and everyone in the crowd. Glow sticks and glory straws were being handed out at the bar - somethings are required for a cheesy night out. We also attracted the attention of a Thai lady friend, who was keen on our drinks. At least she was openly keen: Another guy just picked up my bucket and walked off with it. I caught him trying to steal someone else's' later on. Well, there are always people who spoil it for others, it can't be blamed on the bar.

Happy out of the foam

The party continued late into the night, with the foam being topped up on a regular basis. The bar staff were superb when a glass was broken in the foam, going straight in to remove the glass and tend to the one or two people who had sadly cut themselves (thankfully not badly at all). The music was still banging as we strolled off to our guesthouse around the corner around 3.15am.

All in all, it was a really fun night. Himmel bar advertises winter parties and runs special events quite regularly so be sure to catch one of their parties if you're in the area.


Ambience: 10/10 - If you're looking for a party in Koh Chang, you really can't go wrong.
Price: 150bht buckets, shots 100bht. Other drinks range from 100bht upwards.

Food: They offered barbecued food earlier in the evening, so they do food. I can't vouch for it personally.

Location: Soi 2 Lonely Beach, just off the main street in Lonely Beach - very easy to find.
Toilets: There were toilets and they were attended by staff, trying to keep it foam free. Fairly clean.

Overall: A good choice for a party on Lonely Beach, particularly on special nights.

Dancing the night away

Part 9 - Pub-crawling around the World - Edible Jazz, Pai, Thailand

See - a little too dedicated to kitsch backpacker-ville-ness

I headed to Pai in March 2014 after many recommendations from friends. Although I can't say that Pai blew me away as it seemed to do others, it is a peaceful place to visit and seeing the canyon, waterfalls etc is a lovely way to spend a few days. It kind of takes itself a little seriously as a backpacker haunt, and the whole place appears to cater for this, which I found a little odd, but I did come across Edible Jazz and that made quite a bit of difference.

I wouldn't have found this place only a fellow traveller told me about it before I visited Pai. It's set off one of the night market walking streets so I wandered down after some street food and a delicious rotee.

The place itself is quite rustic, there is some seating and hammocks off to one side (lucky if you get those - I never saw them free!) but you can also sit at low tables, on cushions or mats on the floor. I ordered my vodka and coke and sat on a bench at a table, where I was joined by a friendly Malaysian girl. We had arrived just in time for the live music, which turned out to be a treat.

Pai seems to be visited by many musicians, which is never a bad thing, and people can pitch up for open mic night or some seem to get residencies in this place (and I'm sure others). That night a gentleman called Tik was playing, he started with a few acoustic numbers without vocals, and he was a pretty good guitarist. When he started to sing, I was pleasantly surprised, as for some reason I didn't think he could! He prefers a style like Bob Dylan, but his voice was more tuneful and I enjoyed his versions of Jackson Brown and Beatles numbers amongst others. I tired out quickly that first night after hiking in the canyon and the music was lulling me to sleep so I decided to return the following night a little later, to enjoy more of the music.

Tik was playing again, which was great, and this time I sat on the floor at one of the low tables, where I was joined by a purple cat (surreal things happen when you travel), he obviously was enjoying the tunes too.

See, a purple cat, no hallucinatory drugs required.

The only bum note on this night was being the subject of some smart remarks by a girl at the bar, not a member of staff. When I ordered my vodka, she suggested that I don't like to taste my drinks because I ordered it with coke and she had some comments on my hair too. "Who can afford to get highlights when they are travelling? Mustn't be spending it on the good things to see." I'm not sure why I was a target at that particular moment, but I sensed she saw me as some competition as she eagerly swooped on any unsuspecting male as they approached the bar and hungrily eyed up those who sat far away. It certainly takes all types. If you do happen to know a German girl with attitude who was passing through Pai in early March, do tell her I said hi.

Tik, doing what he does

Shortly afterwards, a quiet woman from behind the bar came out and pulled up a stool beside Tik. When she started to sing, I was taken aback. I have never heard a voice like this, except in recordings. She had that wonderful, rich tone like Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holiday. It was such a surprise but a wonderful one!

Later, I actually got to have a chat to Tik and spent the rest of the time with his sister and her boyfriend.  Tik regaled with some stories of playing around the world and invited me back for open mic night. I'm pretty sure he's gone now, but maybe I'll revisit Pai again for open mic night ;)

If you visit Pai, put this on your list. Chilled and Tuneful.


Ambience: 9/10 - The place has hammocks. It wins on this alone.
Price: 100bht vodka & mixer, 60bht beer (pretty reasonable)

Food: I didn't partake of the food, given that there was street food in abundance nearby but my friends did and it looked pretty good.

Location: Chaisongkram road, just off the night market street.
Toilets: Pretty rustic, and you have to leave the bar to the left to get to them, but clean and with toilet paper. Actual toilets, as opposed to squat toilets.

Overall: A lovely, unpretentious place to while away a few hours, strange, judgemental traveller types notwithstanding ;)

Part 8 - Pub-crawling around the World - Wijaya, Thalpe Beach, Sri Lanka

I stayed in Hikkaduwa for most of the time in Sri Lanka, Volunteering for Manacare, but I definitely had a few social nights out, with a great group of girls who took me under their wing for the duration. Although Wijaya wasn't my most unique Sri Lankan experience, it was definitely the bar in which I spent the most time, and it's suitably off the tourist beaten track enough to warrant comment and recommend that people go there.

Wijaya is a stone's throw from Galle, in Dalawella, Unawatuna - a very short drive from the cluster of busy beach bars in Unawatuna. It's on the main (Matara) road, or can be entered from the beachside. My first afternoon spent there was a Poya Day so I couldn't partake in any alcoholic beverages, I really enjoyed the virgin fruit cocktails (mango...mmmmm) and their wood-fired oven-baked pizza's were definitely tantalising after the steady diet of "rice and curry" I'd been living on.

I was lucky that I was in the expat scene, by virtue of my friends living there, and it's a very popular spot for people that live there to hang out, whether by day or night. It's proximity to the beach (most people actually have a swim and then a bite for lunch/dinner in Wijaya) makes the views simply spectacular, and it's not spoilt by pounding music or loads of holiday makers trashing the beach. In fact, the beach is clean and you'll see many local people swimming in the sea here. Depending on the time of year and the tide, you may be lucky enough to experience the little whirlpools that form in small reefs along the beach, leading to a jacuzzi-like experience! (My camera wasn't waterproof, unfortunately - but I can still remember the sensation).

If you just want to lie in the sunloungers/deck chairs make sure you get there early, particularly in season and at the weekend and you may just be lucky.

I visited a few times, and although you can definitely eat and drink in cheaper places (it's definitely not remotely expensive if you're holidaying from Europe/The Middle East/Oz or U.S.A) I don't think that you'll find anywhere as clean, with such great cocktails and food and it's definitely affordable on a backpacker budget. The pizzas are pretty renowned but I also ate prawn salad and some more Sri Lankan offerings and everything was fresh, delicious and with generous portions. The cocktails were yummy too, evidence of the amount of fresh fruit on offer.

Sarah, CJ and myself with yummy cocktails

Of course, as with any beach bar in Sri Lanka, if you're going any time past four pm, ensure you are sensibly lathered in citronella or deet as the mossies also like Wijaya, and I woke up with approximately 30 bites on my leg one morning! They must have smelt the sweet cocktails...

Although I didn't stay here, I believe Wijaya also has some boutique style guest rooms, which are romantic, clean and budget-friendly (also creepy-crawly free, according to people who have stayed there). If you need something more private and a little bigger - my friends have a beautiful place right across the road - with an open air shower and chipmunks playing in the trees. 

Ambience: 10/10 - I can't fault this place, from lounging and lunch, beach and beer or a cocktail night with friends, it's chilled but you can still party here.
Price: Rs. 400 alcoholic beverages start very reasonably but steadily rise.... cocktails are from Rs. 750 upwards. You can bring your own wine, corkage is approx. Rs. 1000 (which is quite reasonable). 

Food: The food here is a highlight, Pizza's around Rs. 1200, My prawn salad Rs. 850, and there were plenty of prawns. Yes, It's on the high side but the portions are healthy and the food is tasty and fresh.

Location: Matara Road (you can get a bus to stop outside! I used to get a Matara bus from Hikka or Galle), Dalawella, Unawatuna. From Unawatuna, expect to pay about Rs.400 upwards for a tuk.
Toilets: Very clean and there are outdoor showers to wash the sand from the beach off :D

Overall: I spent quite a few nights here, met so many expats, locals and holiday-makers. I really liked the place and I hope to visit again.

Their own website can be found here www.wijayabeach.com

PART 7: Pub-crawling around the world - Minus 5, Queenstown, New Zealand

As well as all the brilliant outdoor activities to do in Queenstown, it has a really buzzy nightlife. I sampled quite of the bars around the town celebrating my jump out of the sky but I have to write about Minus 5 since it's one of those unique experiences that you have to try once.

I had spent the day hiking in the nearby mountains, taking in the spectacular views over Queenstown and wasn't up for anything too hectic so Clara, one of my room mates, and myself booked a discount ticket to Minus 5 Ice Bar. You can buy tickets at their office, but it's twice the price and you do need to book ahead in order to enter. We used www.bookme.co.nz which has great discounts for all the activities in Queenstown and we got our entry for NZD$15 each including a cocktail.

It's located right down near the harbour, on Steamer Wharf, surrounded by other bars and restaurants. When we arrived, we were given warm winter coats, extra socks, gloves and Ugg boots to wear into the bar. I noticed the girl looking after us had an Irish accent so we got into conversation. It turned out that she was from Donegal town (where my mum comes from) and is friendly with two of my cousins, Daniel and Peadar. She had even lived with Daniel in Australia. Seriously, the world is so small!

A group of about eight of us entered the bar and to be honest, any more and it might have been cramped. Apart from the fact that the bar is made of ice, the designs are actually incredible, everything was hand-carved. It's quite fascinating that people do this as work!

The bar seems to be sponsored by Absolut Vodka, which suited me down to the ground. There was a range of fruity cocktails to choose from so I chose a blackcurrant based one, which was very tasty but rather sweet. These were served to us in tumblers made of ice, so you had to hold it in your gloved hand or suffer ice-burn.

We met some other German girls in there (Clara is from Germany) and had a little chat with them but most peoples' time is taken up posing on or with the various items carved out of ice in the bar. I got so cold I could barely speak after being in there 20 minutes but perhaps a few more Absolut cocktails would have warmed me up.

I'd definitely put it on the list of things to do but you wouldn't be spending a night here with your friends. We moved up to Winnie's for some warming beverages afterwards.

Ambience: 9/10 - Although not somewhere you will stay for long, you can't beat it for sheer coolness. (Yes, yes, I know - pun intended.)

Price: $30 per person including one cocktail, unless you buy ahead online.

Food: No food available, unless you find your appetites sated by crushed ice.

Location: Steamer Wharf, Beach Street, Queenstown
Toilets: You have to exit to use the toilets.

Overall: It is a once-off experience and definitely worth it. 9/10

Part SIX -Pub-crawling around the world: The Establishment, Wellington, New Zealand

I arrived in Wellington in the very early hours of Waitangi Day, which is New Zealand's National Holiday but it doesn't inspire the same celebrations as St. Patrick's Day or Australia Day for some reason. Kiwi's are pretty laid-back, maybe that's why?

Windy, but lovely, Wellington

Anyhow, after exploring the windy city of Wellington on this beautiful summers' day in February, joining in the modest celebrations down at the harbour for an hour or two, I decided to find a bar and sample some of the local wine, which I'm told is very similar to the Marlborough region wines.






After a little wander down the street, the Establishment looked promising and were doing $5 glasses of beer and wine for the occasion. It was also the beginning of the Wellington 7's weekends so there was much merriment and rugby-related paraphernalia strewn around the bar.

I settled in at a table with my glass of wine and was immediately pounced upon by some members of "Jay and Flynny's quiet couple." I quickly discovered that Jay and Flynny are local celebrity DJ's (I use the term celebrity loosely here) and participants had won the right do join this big 'ol Waitangi/7's/bank holiday party getting free and special drinks in many of the bars around town. A giant pub-crawl no less :) Each member was sporting a t-shirt with the tag-line (as mentioned above) emblazoned across their chest, which apparently made inebriated members of the party find each-other more attractive. I saw people launch themselves across the bar at each-other, pointing at the t-shirt like it made them part of this great club where they had free access to each-other for random snogs and couplings. I'd wager Jay and Flynny may have been inadvertently responsible for an unplanned pregnancy or two.

Still, I was enjoying the tunes and met some other new friends - the friendliest Frenchman I've ever met (and his girlfriend, so no, that wasn't why he was friendly) who had lived in Wellington for three years and had spotted me on my own (after Jay and Flynny's lot moved on for 'quiet' ones elsewhere). The resident DJ, Shaun, was amping everyone for the rugby 7's with chart tunes and anthems, he even played 'The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air' which proved surprisingly popular and I joined in with the crowd, shamelessly twerking with the rest of them.

A short while later I was back at my table with a fresh glass of wine. A group of lads entered and asked if they could sit at the other side of the table. I agreed and shortly afterward one of them, Danny, started chatting to me. I was beginning to think that Wellington people were just the friendliest in the world when Danny stuttered:
"Er, can I ask you something? It's my stag do and the lads have dares for me and I have to give a girl a lap-dance, would you mind?"
Well, what's a girl to do? I played my part  and even tried to tuck a dollar into his belt. He was mortified, it was all caught on smartphones for posterity and the stags high-fived me and bought me a vino before they left. All in all, I think I did very well out of it. Danny was very grateful and said if I was ever back in Wellington, he and his wife would be happy to accomodate me at theirs. I wasn't quite sure but it certainly reinforced my belief that Wellington people are super-friendly.

After I'd finished my wine, I figured that was quite enough excitement for one night, especially given I had a lovely single room to myself tonight and those are hard to come by whilst back-packing. I also had an early start for the ferry to Picton the next day. I reckon if I was with Jay and Flynny's lot, I'd definitely be still going. Still, it was a very happy and pocket-friendly Waitangi Day for me.

Ambience: 9/10 - The Establishment has a great vibe and the crowd ranged from 20 - 50, definitely a party place.
Price: $5 for wine and beer every day until 8pm - bargain!

Food: Food is available, and the prices were very reasonable ($10 upwards) but I didn't see anyone eating.

Location: Courtenay Place, very easy to find in Wellington.
Toilets: Clean and checked regularly. 

Overall: I had a great night here, I should award bonus points for all the friendly people that approached me! 9.5/10

Pub-crawling around the world: A cosy little wine bar in Luang Prabang

I wouldn't consider myself a wine snob - I'm pretty much an ABC girl - "Anything But Chardonnay" but I do love a good Sancerre when the budget stretches, as I've mentioned before. Unfortunately, when backpacking, budget is a huge concern, but also - it can be pretty fruitless searching for a good bottle of wine in less cosmopolitan parts of Asia. I'd heard that Luang Prabang, with it's French influence, could be an exception. Thus after a few weeks in Thailand, where it was hard to find anything BUT Chardonnay, I was eager to sample a proper glass of wine.

It was New Year's Day, I wasn't feeling too seedy but my body knew it had been out the night before so I was going to take it easy. After buying a huge street dinner for 10, 000kip (Less than 90 cent) I wandered down the street, soaking up the tranquility of Luang Prabang and people watching, I was enticed into a bar by the wine cellar on display and some comfortable street seating(wooden tables and small armchairs).

The waiter was very friendly and attentive, and I found a Pinot Grigio on the menu that they would serve by the glass. It was 35, 000 kip, which is expensive by Laos standards (a beer is usually 8-10,000kip) but hey, that's still half of what I would pay at home, or in Australia. The wine glass was large and it was a generous serving, so I sat, watching LP go by, on the first day of the New Year in a brand new country.

As happens, I got chatting to an older couple at the table beside me. They were German and travel to Laos every couple of years. Now, they felt, it had gotten too touristy - although I found it a welcome relief, and much quieter from other backpacker hotspots. She was intrigued that I travelled alone and that I hadn't yet 'settled' but I explained that I wasn't done seeing the world yet and I really thought the best way to do that was on my own. They told me all about their sons in college and their own travels, and we talked about wine for a little while. He chose a cigar from the box the waiter brought out and I ended up ordering another glass before closing time.

Luang Prabang has a curfew, which I found most interesting and probably a good idea. Bars all close by 11.30 and indeed many of them are shut long before. It is a public offence to be noisy on the street after this and certainly drunken groups are hard to find. I was informed of a late 'club' by my hostel receptionist, if I so wished, but I felt after my crazy few days in Chiang Mai, and a trip down the Mekong planned for early the next morning, I was best to retire. Was 2014 changing me already?

Although I have searched Google, I can't find the name of this bar! I've put the location below, but it may have to remain my little secret, until I return - hopefully by 2015 :)

Ambience: 8/10 - LP is not a party town, but for a good wine at a reasonable price, and probably to make friends, this is a good place.

Food: Not available.

Location: On Sisavangvong Street about half way down, although I can't remember the name

Toilets: None, I had to wait until I got home

Overall: A small place but definitely a 8.5/10 for it's wine list. Lost points for no toilets.

PART 4: Pub-crawling around the world - The Wine Connection, Singapore

I absolutely love Singapore. I first had the chance to visit through work in 2010, all-expenses paid, very nice indeed and I stayed on the gorgeous, tropical Sentosa Island. This time, it was a transit stop before I travelled on to Perth, but I completely embraced it.

I also, as most people know, have a great reverence for wine. My palate has developed over the years and nowadays I'd much prefer to be quaffing a Sancerre or Gavi than the bargain basement choices of old. Beggars can't be choosers though so I often rely on Pinot Grigio to satisfy both my tongue and pocket. An inexpensive PG is always going to be better than a relative Sauvignon Blanc and let's not even mention chardonnay. I don't know anyone who drinks it anymore, but someone must as there's a multitude on every wine list.

This time in Singapore I was lucky enough to have the lovely Ivy and Charlie as my guides around eating and drinking establishments. I met them at a mutual friends' wedding in Ireland last summer where we partied in Dublin and Waterford and now I was in their hometown and they certainly showed me a wonderful time.

After a fabulous dinner of proper Chinese fare, Ivy had ordered everything - and in future I will let her, as she definitely knows food, little plates of fabulousness were served up, accompanied by endless green tea, and after tender pieces of pork, many noodles and bok-choi, we were ready to move on for some alcoholic beverages.

One of their favourite bars was closed, as it was a Sunday night, so they brought me down to Robertson Quay where we settled on "The Wine Connection". Despite the rain, and it being a school night, there were plenty of customers but we found a nice table out the back and settled in to trade funny stories about room mates we'd had over the years. Unfortunately Charlie has experienced some Irish guys who don't really represent our country very well, mostly by being extraordinarily lazy. There was another story about a crazy English guy and we decided that he definitely had the worst run of the luck in the room mate stakes. I've been mostly lucky, although we once had one guy who insisted on hiding naked and jumping out at you every time he got drunk, which led to some awkward situations in the kitchen, bathroom, on the stairs etc.

So, one bottle of wine turned into two, mostly because it was really easy to drink, but we still managed to toddle off home at a reasonable hour and they avoided being too hungover at work the following day. Although it's definitely not a tourist trap and probably not considered by backpackers, it is worth considering if you're either, as it's very reasonable for Singapore and it also offers tapas, which smelled delightful. The fact that it was busy on a Sunday evening is also testament to the fact that it's enjoyed by locals here.

https://www.wineconnection.com.sg/content/13-tapas-bar-bistro


Ambience: 8/10 - It's outdoor area on Robertson Quay is lovely, but the interior felt cosy on this rainy night.
Food: We didn't eat but we saw some small portions being delivered to other tables. Prices start at about $6, which is reasonable for Singapore.
Location: Robertson Quay, plenty of other bars and restaurants in the area to crawl around, if so required.
Toilets: The toilets are around the corner and service the complex, but they were clean and presentable.
Overall: A good variety of wine and prices on the menu and lovely for an intimate catch up.

Pubcrawling around the World - Part 3: Infinity, Chiang Mai

Arriving in Chiang Mai for the second time, I was planning a quieter time than my Christmas/New Year trip.  My cousin, Alex, had other ideas. Whilst I was chilling in Jackie's apartment on my very first evening, he called at 9.30pm and said we were going out. I had only arrived that afternoon and I hadn't even a chance to change or put on make-up when I was on the back of his scooter and we headed off to Niemenhaemin. Alex prefers Thai bars and areas and he told me that usually there are huge get-together's in a car-park nearby but it wasn't to be this Thursday night so across the road we went to Infinity.

Immediately I liked the outdoor area, parts are covered with an artful gazebo like structure and the other half is completely open-roofed. On a small stage, there was a girl singing popular tunes and she was pretty good. We were straight into it, ordering a bottle of Absolut, joking around with the waitresses.

You can see the stage in the background

When we had approached the bar, we saw a sign saying "Foreigners: 200Bt entry fee." but I think since it was quiet enough they didn't press the issue with us, or perhaps they knew Alex would be ordering lots of shots...

After a couple of hours catching up and enjoying the atmosphere (and perfect weather) outside, we headed inside where Alex met some of his students who had just graduated. Inside was like a nightclub, there was a Thai band onstage belting out popular numbers (well, I assume so - it was all in Thai but the music sounded superb!) everyone was dancing and whilst there were couches to sit on, there was also a big dancefloor and most people were standing or dancing. Towers of drink were being ordered and there was general mayhem enjoyed by 18-25 year olds! Everyone was really friendly and there was a real party atmosphere in the place.

From the outside, there are huge glass floor-to-ceiling windows which house the club part of the venue, and it's pretty upmarket. It reminded me of super-clubs in other cities and if you're into clubs then definitely give this place ago.

I was really enjoying the music but I did feel a little out of my depth, given that I was probably the only non-Thai present, on the older side of the crowd and I had no Thai to speak of! I had to wander off around 2am, my excuse being that I was still jet-lagged from my Australian flight two days prior. I'm not sure even Alex knows what time he got in, but apparently the club closes pretty late.

Ambience: 10/10 -This place has everything, outdoors for chilling, indoors to get your groove on!
Cost: $$ A little on the pricey side for Chiang Mai, but ridiculously cheap for Westerners - 950Bht for a bottle of Absolut
Food: Didn't eat - not even sure they serve food!
Location: Just off Niemenhaemin.
Toilets: Spotless, with friendly Thai girls.
Overall: A great place for a big night out with a group of friends.

PART 2 - Pub-crawling around the world: Groper's Garage, Kaikoura, New Zealand

Kaikoura is an absolutely beautiful peninsula on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand. Many visit for the wildlife - on the drive in you will see fur seals basking on the rocks, albatross flying through the air and if you go on a boat trip, you'll spot dusky dolphins and hopefully a giant sperm whale (or three, as I was lucky enough to!). It's also a great place for walking and hiking, with the Kaikoura mountains providing a stunning backdrop and aptly demonstrating the phrase "Where the mountains meet the sea." that you will notice written everywhere in this little town.
The beach in Kaikoura    

Groper's Garage was recommended to me by the owner of the FishTank Lodge, where I stayed in Kaikoura. Craig is an awesome guy, full of tips for the surrounding area and with a great sense of humour. I popped into the bar at dusk and was delighted to find a huge open fire and really comfy sofas. I loved the layout of the place and although it's quite large and bright, it felt cosy and homely on this rainy evening.

It's located on the main street, a stone's throw from the beach and surrounded by little craft and beachwear stores. There is outdoor seating with heaters too as Kaikoura can get pretty chilly, exposed as it is to the sea and with the backdrop of those snow-capped peaks.

I ordered a spaghetti carbonara from the very attractive barman (always a bonus in a venue!) and a local Sauvignon Blanc, as the Marlborough wine region is nearby and our bus journey took us through them on the way from Picton to Kaikoura. I'm glad to say that the wine was really nice and encouraged me to have a second glass. The carbonara was absolutely steaming when it arrived - a huge portion in an earthenware bowl. I managed to finish only about half of it but it was pretty tasty. Prices were a little on the high side (ranging from NZ$17 upwards for mains although light bites are cheaper) but that's how it is in Kaikoura, so if you're really low on pennies then buy before you get there and cook.

I didn't speak to any other customers there but I was reading so I was happy enough to stay on my own. I noticed one or two other solo travellers and there were groups playing pool. A few locals who worked nearby (I was eavesdropping) were popping in to arrange plans with the staff and some stayed for a drink.

I could have stayed for the night, hoping someone would break out a guitar and give me an excuse, but I had to be up extra early for whale-watching so I called it a night after two drinks but I'd love to return.


Ambience: 8/10 - obviously it would have been better for me if I was with people
Cost: $$$$$ (On the pricey side but the portions are built for sharing) Fries are NZ$8, my dish was $17, the wine was $9
Food: Really tasty, huge portions (too big for me - more suited to a huge labourer)
Location: Opposite the ocean, v.good, easy to find.
Toilets: All good.
Overall: Drop in, if only to see the handsome barman ;)

http://gropergarage.co.nz

PART 1 - Pub-crawling around the world - Ponyfish, Melbourne

Ponyfish in Melbourne is pretty unique in that it's located right in the middle of the river, under a bridge. 10/10 for originality there, not even Dubai has managed that one yet! It's just a walk away from Flinders Street Station and my friend Clare took me there one balmy summer's evening for a few drinks.

We descended the steps into the bar around 5pm on a Wednesday and it was already packed with people sharing platters (which looked very tasty) and drinking beers. Many seemed to be sampling the bar's own beer - Ponyfish. I'm not a beer drinker and after a few days on the dry, I felt like a wine so Clare and I ordered $8 glasses of an Aussie Sauvignon Blanc. This was served in sturdy tumbler glasses, a difference from the norm for me. Unfortunately the wine tasted awful! It really surprises me how much bad wine I tasted in Australia, given how many vineyards are nearby. It's not cheap either.

After one of Clares' friends joined us, we moved onto the Pinot Grigio, which cost the same but wasn't much of an improvement on the palate. There were a variety of people around from dreadlocked, arty types to people loosening their ties after a day at the office. There were some Irish people at the table next to us (we are everywhere!) It's a gorgeous place to while away an evening and possibly if I drank beer I would have rated it first class but as it was, I can't really. Fortunately the company was good so we passed two hours there (and I spent about $32 - killer on a traveller budget!) and I would return again - I'd just probably stick to the spirits this time.

Ambience: 9.5/10
Cost: $$$$$$$ (a bit too high for the traveller pocket but probably fair if you're earning in Melbourne)
Food: I didn't try so I can't comment but the menu looked good and the sharing platters were being devoured around us. Prices start at $10 - $15 for food items.
Location: Good and easy to reach by public transport. I must point out that I didn't see any elevator so I don't think it's wheelchair friendly
Toilets: Good, clean, and not in demand even though there are only two.
Overall: Definitely worth it for the view, try a beer instead of wine.

It's also worth noting that there are no rancid river smells which can happen in various cities (memories of Bangkok).


There own website is pretty good - although prices are not available.
http://www.ponyfish.com.au

An introduction to Sri Lanka

The first thing I want to say about Sri Lanka is: Be careful; you will fall in love with this place and you may never leave. Arriving at 4am on a Sunday morning may not immediately make you think this but believe me, after the first 24 hours it will already have surrounded you and made you feel a little better about things. The sunshine, the sea... even if you've managed to get as far as the mountains - there is something special about the place that I was rapt with from early on. 

People have a huge impact - those you're travelling with or those you meet. For me, the first conversation I had was with Indrani, the hostess at the hostel I was staying at - Beach Monkey in Negombo

http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Beach-Monkey-Negombo/Negombo/78544?dateFrom=2013-12-10&dateTo=2013-12-13&sc_sau=avdc&sc_pos=2

It was certainly no frills, but Indrani's attitude and friendliness (even at 5am) more than made up for any lack of facilities. She is just a really warm person. I was barely coherent (see - me & airplanes etc) but she quickly sorted out my bed, deposit etc so I could get to sleep. She also said she'd make breakfast whenever I liked. Over a couple of days and a mix of Sinhalese and broken English I discovered she was from Pereniya, near Kandy and her family worked in tea plantations. Her daughter was getting married in December and she would travel back for the wedding. when she discovered that I wasn't as flush with cash as other travellers she got her son to show me to the bus station and we both took the bus to Kandy. She even made me lunch, free of charge, whilst she was making a portion for him. It was just a wonderful welcome by someone - especially since I was travelling alone.

In the hostel you'll get your bed, a mossie net and a good location. The bathroom is outside (but there are lights) and your shower probably won't be too hot but it's an absolute bargain. I stayed out of season and it cost me about 3 euro's a night! 

Most people aren't incredibly impressed by Negombo but for me it was a nice taster for the rest of Sri Lanka, the children all wanted to high-five me, residents all wanted to speak with me for a few minutes - even those who had nothing to sell. There are lots of shops with pretty high quality leather goods for a fraction of what you would pay in Europe. Cows roam the beaches - which is a new one for an Irish lass

It isn't the tidiest of places but there are stretches of quiet seaside, and little cafe's/bars line it so in the afternoon you can have your own slice of unspoiled sea-views with probably no people around. I liked it. I also had lunch at http://www.icebearhotel.com which all the guidebooks recommend. Everywhere is reasonably priced but it is helpful to know that you're getting quality, as places can vary wildly. I had a lovely fluffy omelette and the staff were very nice. I also had my first taste of Sri Lankan tea. I didn't notice a huge difference but I guess knowing it was picked nearby was pretty cool.

In the evening I headed to Lord's, which is worth a visit just to read the owner, Martin's, story. Fascinating.

http://www.lordsrestaurant.net

The food and drinks were tasty too. Here I had my first arrack cocktail - the local spirit, coconut based and pretty tasty (although even two knocked me a little off-balance!). You can have a fish pedicure and look at some art. I particularly appreciated the sax player providing some bluesy numbers whilst I dined.

So don't rush past Negombo; it's a nice introduction to this beautiful island. 

Temple-ing it up in Siem Riep.

After a long rest in Siem Reap Rooms, I got up to a hearty breakfast and some chats with fellow travellers (the couple beside me were from Northern Ireland - you can't go anywhere, seriously!) I explored Siem Riep on foot for a bit whilst April slept on. It is a seriously lovely town; very different in style to Phnom Penh - there are traces of French colonialism everywhere.

Me on the streets of Siem RiepAfter April had arisen, Phil (the hostel owner) gave us tips on exploring Siem Riep and the surrounding areas. He asked us what we liked and recommended some itineraries for us. We also had a tuk-tuk driver, Charl, on standby to take us wherever we pleased.

Laura arrived just in time for us to set off for sunset at Angkor Wat. If you've ever been, I don't need to explain how absolutely breathtaking the first sight of Angkor Wat is. The trip in the tuk-tuk was fun, watching all the little street stalls set up opposite the lake and the temples themselves. There were crowds streaming towards the entrance (and it wasn't even high season!) which we followed and we walked up to the main temple to watch the sunset. We watched the monks hurry across the pathways for prayer, resplendent in robes of gold/orange. Over the noise of the birds we could hear their chanting carried on the wind. It was very calming and there is something amazingly spiritual about the place. I can't explain it, to be honest so I'll just post some photos.....

People say it's more spectacular when the sun sets over Angkor Wat itself (The sun moves around at different times of year) but I've never seen anything quite so spectacular.

We were all fairly quiet as we toured around, taking in the magnificence of the temple. It's remarkable how much detail is in the carvings from thousands of years ago. I sometimes wonder if we're getting it wrong  - all the new gadgets and fandangled inventions - these people carved epic scenes in stone! It really is a wonder of the world. 

We visited the famous Red Piano for dinner, a popular day and night spot with great views over the bustling market and streets. We didn't sample the Tomb Raider cocktail there (every tenth one sold is free! Alarm bells were going off every second with people winning free drinks) as we were also doing sunrise at Angkor Wat so had a 4am start. The food was tasty, but nothing really beats street noodle soup in Cambodia. 

So after a fulfilling day we crept back to our fabulously comfy beds for dreams of temples and days gone by.

Koh-Rong - off the map

Koh-Rong is two hours off the coast of Southern Cambodia, technically somewhere in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand. To anyone else in the world - it's Timbuktoo or Narnia, not many will ever get to go there but believe me it's worth it.

It's basically a like a beachfront village. There is no five-star accomodation here - in fact I think the tree-top hut April and I inhabited for our stay ($15) was about as classy as it gets. The only disconcerting part was that after we'd walked down the wooden quay to the beach (after getting off the boat) we entered Coco's (after removing our flip flops - everyone in the bar is barefoot) and the first thing I hear is a Dublin accent.... Almost 11, 000 km from home...sure where else?

Our hut - Fabulous, although we were convinced there was a polar bear from "Lost" underneath it one night. This may have had something to do with copious amounts of alcohol and some hallucinogenics... we didn't plan on the hallucinogenics by the way.... but on a remote island in South East Asia...well, let's say you're always going to get more than you planned for.

There is very little electricity on the island. Coco's had a generator but all the lights outside the bar go off around 1am. We made our way back to the hut in the dark or by candlelight, we also heard alot of other people falling around the place in the dark late at night.

The few days spent there were passed in a hazy bliss, massages overlooking the sea as the sun went down.... delicious noodle soup served in a shack which had a roof but only two walls (people lived there and dogs and chickens ran all around our feet), snoozing in the sunshine after swimming in crystal clear waters, drinking suspect cocktails at Coco's and dancing to questionable Euro-pop with other backpackers who'd found the island, eating fresh fish that the man went out and caught right in front of us in the ocean - with a spear no less, watching youths learning to become flame-throwers....It was all a little surreal.

My favourite little pup - BBQ!

Sandflies and puppies and Phil, the traveller from Manchester who was completely spaced out, we didn't know if he'd been there 4 days, 4 months or 4 years. I had breakfast with him one morning where we had a long discussion (mostly him - I was still recovering from casting Harry Potter spells in the bar the previous night) about how it would be if we could all read eachother's minds. Phil eventually came to the conclusion that it would be a bad idea. Excerpt as follows:

Phil: It would be bad, really bad....(spaces out for a bit - I'm still looking at him) bad, man, ye know?

Me: Yeah

Phil: Like I'm a nice guy, a bright guy and I know alot of stuff, but sometimes...sometimes I just think - I'd like to kill you, ye know?

Me: Yeah (Note I didn't even argue here, maybe I too was spaced out)

Phil: Not you personally but you know when you meet someone really stupid.....stupid, stupid (pointing at his head)

Me: Yeah

Phil: Well, like that, you're like Shut up! Shut up! Shut up! in your head like, and I wouldn't want people to know that

Me: Yeah, I know what you mean Phil.

And then he lay down on the bench again, staring into space, with one hand up shaped like a claw. He was an interesting guy.

Paradise

Standards and habits that you have at home need to go by the wayside when you're traveling. April managed to wash her hair each day in the cold water, but I mostly just had a swim in the sea and a sponge down afterwards, my hair was in an interesting condition after three days but my skin was ultra soft! I lived in a bikini and sometimes threw a ti-shirt over it.

All the children on the island are schooled in one room - which has a roof but is otherwise open air. We could hear them learning their colours in English as we passed down the beach. Absolutely charming. These people are poor though and rarely go to the mainland, we would see them washing their clothes in the sea and the clothes lines hung across the trees. They are so friendly though, always smiling. The children would run down the beach after us and giggle shyly if we said hello or waved.

There's wonderful diving and snorkelling off the island. You can even go at night, as the sharks come out then :) We were content just to read and swim and take it all in, the longest walk we managed was about twenty minutes.

There will be gecko's and mice in your room, and possibly other things too, but I thought of a hut on a lake in Thailand two years previously and just decided to go with it. There's no point stressing over these things when you're traveling - you just won't enjoy it as much. Which is not to say that I didn't sleep in with April, and all her luggage, whilst on the island (I found fresh droppings in my bed....when my mossie net had been up...) but then there's more stories in there.

Koh Rong is due for redevelopment soon, which is a real pity. I think they are going to stick some five star resort on it, and you can see why, but they will definitely destroy some of the wonderful magic they have going on there.

Last night in Split

Most of the boys grabbed a quick kip on the bus back to Split whilst Ryan, Lisa and I chatted boobs and bodies. Back onboard Sarah showed me her wares from shopping (including a pretty little friendship bracelet for me) as I lolled on the bed, needing a nap but knowing I had no time. A shower pepped me up and we had a quick vodka before leaving - already late for the restaurant.

We headed to a pretty courtyard in Split where Louise had booked us in for dinner. Even though we were late - once again they hadn't the table ready (did they just not believe 18 of us would turn up?). We all got seated, ordered wine and beer and set about perusing the menu. Lisa and I were both looking for a bit of seafood and after tasting Lucie's delicious octopus salad starter we knew we had made a good decision. As one can probably imagine, being so coastal - seafood everywhere in Croatia is pretty much delicious. They do like to make it in pies and quiches though which isn't really my style. I prefer it on the grill with a bit of garlic and salt - and straight to my plate. More food and wine arrived, laughs were being had around the table. We tried to get Allan and Lisa to wear their new ti-shirts - Allan's was "Nude Lifeguard"! No one was thinking about the fact that it was our last night. We discussed future group activities - a ski/snowboard trip to Lebanon, the boys doing a triathlon, my solo trips to various places next year. The restaurant rustled up a kind of birthday cake (there seemed to be alot of cream or ice cream and not alot of cake) for Allan and it was time to make our way to the end of cruise party at a nearby bar.

Chloe and I after dinner.

I had to bid a sweet goodbye to Lisa as she was ill and flying very early and then Chloe and I went on our own little tour to find the bar, and perhaps a tattoo parlour on the way. We had decided on our first night to get tattoo's together but we couldn't decide on designs etc. There had been some joking at dinner that I would get the line from "Braveheart" - "This is my island" inked somewhere on my body but I thought that might be a future regret! I was contemplating some musical notes, a melody or riff - somewhere inconspicuous but there was no tattoo parlour in sight so we settled on some shots in a side street bar before finally reaching Cocktail Bar Paradiso for the Sail Croatia farewell party. There we hooked up with our super rep Janice and had a few drinks with her before the Jager train to top them all. In our usual tradition, it had to be bigger, better and longer than anyone else's. You'd know we lived in Dubai! I don't know how the number came about - I believe it was something to do with beating other boat's tallies but 62 was decided on. It took an hour and a half to set up (mainly because some muppet stood on the bench where it was being set up and knocked half the red bulls down).

Even in the photo we can spot some of our new friends!

After we'd all had a few and mingled with the strangers, it was time to embarrass Allan (It was difficult to know whether he was embarrassed or not as he was so sunburned! You can see him at the top of the picture there - darker than anyone else). Lauren (my friend in Dubai, dating Allan) had sent gifts from Dubai for Allan to open on the night and Gareth felt it only right to give the birthday boy a snog. I've never seen Allan snog a man before and to be honest I'm not sure it will happen again! I fitted in some time to kiss Sarah (She begged) and have a little dance around. I don't even remember the music. There may not have been music!

We walked back to the boat through picturesque rain-washed streets and decided to get our party on back onboard. Drink was acquired from various places, music was set-up on the top deck and deck-chairs were dragged around. Perfect for more dancing. Our fun didn't last long, the Captain came up and asked us to not to party. A little deflated but aware that he was being perfectly fair (He did have to get up every day and cook for us) Doug mentioned a beach nearby so we decided to bring the party there. Gary even let us borrow his speakers. The beach was a bit of a walk away so many got lost along the way and there was a weird crowd there (outsiders!) when we arrived. After a vodka I decided I would head back to the boat. I was a little disorientated and seemed to have lost alot of people so I thought it would be better to go back and find them.

I met Chloe as I got on deck and we sat down with Katie and Elliot just inside the hallway on a little sofa where they'd perched many nights of the trip. There were people running around the boat and from room to room as dawn broke and all I could think of was how I had to leave so many amazing people in a few hours - including my old (and new friends) from Dubai. I was exhausted, 7 nights of drinking was taking it's toll and I was all too aware that I had to be up in about 3 hours. It wasn't the best feeling.
Suffice to say, it only got worse before I left. I managed to only get about an hours sleep, and ended up packing in the most uncoordinated, horrible mindset I've ever been in. I wasn't quite hungover but I was definitely dehydrated, I wasn't quite sober but not happy drunk. It was dreadful. Meanwhile Sarah was singing around the cabin, still drunk and completely oblivious to the fact that we had to get up and out.
As I sat on a bench beside the boat (and found my pashmina tied around it?!) in the blazing morning sunlight watching Katie spew into the port I was hit by bags of rubbish as some of the crew removed them from the boat. That was pretty much how it felt - from top deck luxury to the gutter - all in a few hours.

It was a strange last night but an amazing trip that I'm sure none of us will ever forget...
Hvala na sjećanjima Hrvatskoj.

Memories of Mljet

Tuesday afternoon I crawled above deck just prior to docking at Mljet. Everyone was gathered around Lisa who had tales of her "birthday present" and it seemed some people down the other end of the deck were discussing it too ;). After we'd post-mortemed the night (Classified!) and our tour guide advised us all on the afternoon's activities, we disembarked to go swim in the sea nearby.

Mljet is a gorgeous little island off Dubrovnik, with a national park and a small community devoted to conservation. The sea was freezing, as usual, but we had fun playing around in the small pool nearby and the boys took turns in trying to dive through the various rings they had brought. Somehow I managed to hit the bottom of the sea, despite being the smallest, scraping my already banjaxed toes along the bottom. Ryan and Gary had the music going and it was very relaxing. When the wind had blown us dry we picked up and headed back to the boat for some afternoon drinks and to prepare for a cycle around the island.

Sarah and myself's late night chatting caught up with us and we decided on a quick nap but when the boys came to get us for cycling neither of us could move. It looked absolutely spectacular, particularly St. Mary's islet and monastery. After I'd caught an hour or two sleep I went off on a little walk of my own to explore. It was absolutely peaceful and the sounds of nature recharged me as I walked. On my way back I decided I'd choose a restaurant for that nights dinner and spoke to some of the restaurant owners. They were all friendly but I needed a place to cater for the various palates of our group so I settled on one where they had a varied menu. I stocked up on some snacks and drinks at the local shop and returned to the boat - having to cross 5 other boats to reach ours. In the process I lost one of my lovely white flip flops but decided against retrieving it as the depth of the drop between the boats was a little far for me!

Then it was time for drinks in the bar on deck again and everyone was pretty relieved that this definitely wasn't going to be a late night. No hidden clubs in coves here! We headed over to dinner and after a little bit of a wait we were delighted to find that the local food was very nice indeed. Gary said it had been his best meal on the trip so far.

Conversation over dinner at my end of the table centred around jobs in Dubai and us trying to convince Katie, Chloe and Liz that they should go to find work in Dubai. I think we sold it well? (Although after a week with us on a boat maybe not?!). The wind was sweeping in off the ocean making us very chilly but a nice Intrada wine warmed me up.

Dave, Gareth, Doug and myself stayed back at the restaurant to finish the wine, being literally the last to leave the restaurant and then Doug and I got into a conversation about the photography industry - given I had worked in it back in Dubai. We stopped off at the nearest little beach bar to the boats and had a drink with some people who were on other cruises. Back onboard it was time for a little night-cap on the top-deck with most of the girls cosied up under quilts. It was so windy, but the sky was sparkling with stars and we all felt we could have slept out there.

I retired at a reasonable hour - think it was just past two - and delighted that I could probably get a quality night sleep before our trip to Korcula on Wednesday.

(Photos - Doug Harding for the group shot in the pool)