The early days of summer in Devon.

I've moved, many times, and although I'm drawn to the dynamism of city life, there's a part of me that yearns for life in the country. So after a few months in London, an escape to a farm in Devon sounded heavenly. I made arrangements with Becky, the owner of Cuckoo Down Farm, in February and in the middle of May, I found myself taking a train to Honiton (having left my licence in Ireland!) to spend a few days in the countryside - a welcome retreat from my busy life in the city.

It was a beautiful evening when, after a few wrong turns, the taxi pulled up to the farm. The farm is actually very well signposted and the owners were great at giving instruction by phone - shame neither myself nor the taxi driver were paying much attention, enrapt as we were with the winding lanes and pretty houses, barely visible through the trees.

A view of Cuckoo Down Farm, from the entrance

John, one of the owners, was straight out to meet me, and even took my backpack up to my safari tent, Daisy, for me (all the tents are named after plants). This gave me a chance to wander past the animals (goats, chickens, a donkey), over a wooden bridge and up the gently sloped field to the safari tent.

Inside, it was remarkable - like a country cottage - yet under a tent. Two separate bedrooms, furnished with high-quality beds and linen. The living and dining area was sizeable, easily enough for a couple of families to take over after a day at the beach or nearby attractions. A small kitchen had everything required - a proper kettle, gas cooker top, cutlery - and separate bins for food, recyclables and unrecycled waste. Cuckoo Down is intent on sustainability and friendly to the environment, so all guests are requested to bring their waste to the compost and rubbish bins at the bottom of the field where the tents and yurts are situated. Points from me! They'd also left a complimentary bottle of wine and warm wishes for my stay. This beats the luxury of 5 star hotels for me - it really feels like they care about their guests here.

Comfy sofa bed and part of dining table

After spending most of the day travelling, I was sweaty and tired, so I laid down on the sofa (bed) to restore my energy. A short while later, Becky arrived on horseback to say hello and check that I was settling in nicely. She let me know about some of the local area and pointed out the helpful book they have put together with details of local pubs, restaurants, culture and places to see. It is packed with things to do - you could easily spend two weeks here. Cuckoo Down Farm is only 12 miles from Exeter, and about 5 miles from the nearest town, but there are many things to do within driving distance, so it's highly recommended you bring your car. I got by fine on foot and public transport, but I never got to the beach due to no car - even though it was blisteringly hot. I considered hitching, but since it was mid-week, I thought I was unlikely to find a car headed that way.

After discovering the local shop (reasonably well-stocked, but pricey) and wandering around the farm a bit, I sat down and simply watched the sun set from the deck.

It was utterly peaceful, with the only sound being the sheep in surrounding fields and birds singing in the treetops.

When darkness falls, there are lanterns to light the way to the compost toilet (right beside your safari tent) or for reading out on the deck. These can be charged back up at the entrance to the farm, and there are spares awaiting (there's also room to charge your phones/iPads), fridges for each tent/yurt so you can store chilled goods.

Next morning, gentle sounds of wildlife drifted into my tent and after a wonderful night sleep, I emerged in the dewy mist to wander through the woods at the back of tent. The scent of honeysuckle hangs in the air here and a few lungfuls will make you expel all the dirt of the city. There are a few trails through the woods that are easy enough for children, but be careful of ticks - I was fine, but I had my hiking boots and good socks on (even in the heat). I also ordered a dinner off Paul and Carolyn Bellinger, who have a small local farm, who are recommended on the Cuckoo Down Farm website. Proper, home cooked food that was steaming hot on arrival - the cottage pie was huge and hearty and the sticky toffee pudding was delightfully indulgent (and so far from the M&S or Sainsbury's packaged versions you get!) It's also very reasonable and delivered right to your tent, so if you're out on your feet, dinner is sorted.

I spent 4 days on the farm and it's been years since I felt so refreshed. I managed to explore both the local town, Ottery St. Mary and Exeter city, with the local bus that runs from a garage about 15 minutes away. Both were well worth a visit, with special mentions to The Rusty Pig,   where I had an exquisite meal cooked for me from just a brief conversation with the Chef, and the Glorious Art House; I stopped in for Wi-fi and found great food, friendly staff and a charming outdoor area hidden from passersby. On the other days I simply went for walks around the farm and nearby. In the evenings, I didn't feel compelled to go to the nearby pubs, simply sitting/lying outside with my book (and a cheeky glass of wine) was enough for me. For someone who is always on the go, this place gently put a stop to that. I would happily spend 4 days every week here.

For my first foray into the countryside of Devon, I was probably a bit spoilt! The chickens ran to greet me every morning (I must have smelled like food) and the sun shone almost every moment. Only on the last day the temperature dropped and I set up the wood-burning stove, which made the place lovely and cosy - perfect for a rainy day playing board games (or in my case, more reading).

Chicken Run!

Morning strolls

Plant life

Spacious, private, deck

Pretty Exeter

Better than most boutique hotels!

Part 12: Pub-crawling around the world - Ris Café, Rome, italy

A rugby weekend in Rome with my Dad meant one thing: Guinness would be on the menu, probably in sizeable quantities.

The revered drink - photo credit Tavis Beck

We were staying just outside the walls of the Vatican city, which we thought would be quite touristy, but in fact was quite Italian. On our first night, it seemed like our pursuit of a good pint was fruitless, wandering dark streets where cool leather-clad Italian youths smoked in the doorways of tiny cafés and run-down clubs, until we came upon a main street on our way back to our accommodation. Dad pointed out the Guinness sign glowing in the distance and I noticed his pace quicken considerably at the thought of a creamy pint.

There were a few tables outside, again mostly populated by younger Italians chatting, but when we went through the main doors it was clear that an Irish contingent in town for the weekend (or perhaps the Irish who live in Rome?) had discovered the place before us. Mid-nineties' British tunes blared from the speakers and different groups spilled out from various alcoves and rooms off the main entrance. There were two barstools empty at the bar, a surprising sight on a Friday night in any big city, so we took our perches and ordered two pints.

I was unsure at first, the bar staff seemed to be kept busy making cocktails and exhibiting their flair for mixology (and showing off to patrons) but one guy served us up our pints and they looked pretty good. I took a deep gulp and snuck a glance to the side at my Dad, to see him revelling in the cold pint with a slight grin and smiling eyes. We were onto a winner.

Over the weekend, we stopped into Ris Café every night for 'just one more' and Dad even suggested coming over to Italy when they play in Ireland to soak up the atmosphere in this bar. It was lively every time, the bar staff were friendly and although it wasn't the cheapest bar we visited, it was fairly equivalent to most bars we went to in Rome.

I didn't take any photos of the bar itself but you can find some here with some further reviews.

Ambience: 8.5/10 - it got a bit rowdy at times but was mostly good
Cost: $$ (Guinness was around EUR 6 a pint - more expensive than Dublin)
Food: the food menu looked reasonably priced compared to other places in Rome, of course Pizza is available (starting at 7.50). We didn't eat but it smelled pretty good.
Location: Piazza del Risorgimento 16, 00192 Rome, Italy
Toilets: Small and not very accessible, down the stairs
Overall: If you want a good pint when in Rome, visit Ris Café.

Bergen - Picturesque but rainy

I arrived into Bergen on the Rotterdam ship one Monday morning in July. The skies were overcast but I wasn't about to let rain deter me from the one day I had in this port.

Bergen is famous for its World Heritage Site of Bryggen, which is the fishing wharf with brightly painted buildings. However, there are other places of interest in this picturesque city, Immediately evident is the aesthetically pleasing Norwegian architecture throughout but nature is also on the doorstep, with the sea and mountains both surrounding this port city.

First stop was, predictably, the Bergenhus Fortress, situated as it is on the harbour. One of the oldest castles in Norway, it is remarkably well-preserved and the defensive tower from the 13th Century still stands proudly overlooking the water. The fortress is still used by the Royal Norwegian Navy however the buildings within at one point accommodated the royal family, a church and a bishop's residence. I was interested in learning about it and I always admire old buildings and ponder at what stories we aren't told.

I grabbed a hot tea from a roadside van to warm me up as a persistent mist threatened rain and I headed along the waterfront, with all it's pretty buildings. Many of these are souvenir shops, so I walked on, heading to the funicular to take me to the top of Mount Floyen. The funicular costs NOK 45 (approx EUR 4.80 or GBP 4.30) one way, although you can take a steep walk of over an hour to get up there. I love funiculars so I decided on this, particularly as the rain was now pouring out of the sky. The trip takes between 5 - 8 minutes so you quickly gain great views across the city. At the top, the views are quite breathtaking as you can take in the several mountains around and the different parts of the city. The rain obviously didn't deter many tourists, as it was pretty busy there.

Misty panorama of Bergen and me

I had heard that the coffeeshop/restaurant at the top were quite nice, although pretty expensive - like most things in Norway, but I wasn't hungry or needing a break yet. There's a playground with troll figures for kid's to enjoy and different scenic walks through the mountains that lead off from here. I decided on walking back towards the city. A couple hundred metres from the viewpoints, I came across some free-roaming goats, who are tagged with this new technology that prevents them from going outside certain areas. I'm not 100% that this is particularly animal-friendly, as it gives them an electric shock if they venture into prohibited areas, but I suppose at least they aren't penned in. Some of these goats were highly entertaining, with one parading around on a table top, posing for pictures. I also found it amusing that the only black goat was called Obama.

Off I wandered back down the mountain, through the forest and on a well-worn path. The views are quite nice on the way down too and I enjoyed being out in the fresh air. It took me around 40 minutes to get back to the city and I had worked up a bit of an appetite so I headed through the fish market to Trekroneran for a tasty, budget-friendly meal. This small stall has a variety of hot dog options around 50 - 60 NOK (Around GBP 5 - 6). I thoroughly enjoyed it and I'm not normally a hot dog fan.

I wanted to visit Troldhaugen, the composer Edvard Grieg's house but I hadn't left enough time (the perils of drinking in the crew bar til 4am). The house is a living museum and concerts are held daily in the summer at lunchtime. It was now past that and I was worried if I took the bus that I wouldn't make it back to the boat on time. You can take a bus from the Visitor's Centre in Bryggen and please go if you're a music lover!

I wandered back through the wooden houses of Bryggen, visiting the shops and workshops that sell a myriad of tourist goods but also some beautiful handcrafts and clothing. All the staff have impeccable English and were really friendly. I bought a couple of affordable items for friends who may not make it this far North and headed back to the ship.

I definitely wished I had more time to spend in Bergen as it was somewhere that surprised and delighted me, with its' quirky streets and an abundance of cafés and restaurants that I'd be keen to try if feeling more flush.

We set sail in late afternoon, luckily getting some spectacular scenic cruising in before we left Norway. The sun came out a little, but my photos definitely would have benefitted from better light.

Part 11:Pub-crawling around the World - The Valley House, Achill, Ireland.

Far from just a bar, The Valley House in Achill is steeped in history, a previous Daniel Craig movie set and a top rated Lonely Planet hostel. I've mentioned it in many blog entries but never under pubcrawling. Now I'm correcting this clear oversight. It's difficult to pinpoint one particular night in this incredible venue as I've spent so many there but here are memories and reasons you should visit.

Slievemore at sunset, can be seen from the end of the lane at the Valley House

The location - Firstly, it's on Achill island, which is beautiful anytime of year but particularly in the summer months. The bar itself is hidden by trees, surrounded by a pitch and putt course and a small lake. It's less than a fifteen minute walk to the nearest immaculate and often deserted beach. It's courtyard captures stunning sun in the late afternoon and it's wonderful to while away a few hours basking in the sun there. I remember a particular bank holiday Monday in June 2007, guitars were out as was the sun, tunes aplenty and good company - it made for a perfect evening. Of the friends I spent it with, three live in different countries now, one is married with a child and one I have long since lost contact with.

The music. I can't remember many nights without music in this place, for me it's the first place I think of when I hear "session". From regulars who show up with their guitar to visiting musicians with banjo's, flutes, violins or crystal-clear voices - I have never heard such a diverse amount of talent in any other venue, and here you don't even pay for it. Even the owner, Pat and his wife, Alice, are great musicians and the "sesh" is encouraged every night. There are people who have been joining in the sessions here for over 30 years (including my own Dad) when Pat's father, Roger (RIP) ran the place. If you want a bar with music in Ireland, you can't go wrong here. My own favourite memories centre around jamming with my Dad when we've been here together, particularly August bank holiday 2012 and 2013. Hearing an ensemble version of "The Weight" with impeccable harmonies still resounds from 2008 and a version of "There is a Light that will never go out," will always remind me of nights in the Valley House.

Regulars taking part in the "sesh" one summer night

An inexpensive bed can be stumbling distance from the bar. In the cooler months of the year (of which there are many in Ireland), it is nice to stay in the warm confines of the Valley House after a few pints of Guinness (or whatever you're having). It is advisable to book ahead for holiday weekends - i.e St Patricks Day, Easter, Hallowe'en etc. The Hallowe'en party is normally great craic. Music as always and an array of creative costumes, from Slash (Guns N'Roses) to a French courtesan (portrayed by a man), Robin Hood to Sponge-Bob. It's great to be able to crawl up the stairs and not out into the freezing night, particularly in October or March - or even sometimes May!

The Guinness must be mentioned. It was the bank holiday weekend in October 2006 and a group of us were staying in the Valley House, sharing the 12-bed dorm (great fun, as you can imagine). Åine , a friend, was buying a round for everyone and was insisting that her friend's boyfriend, John, didn't need another pint of Guinness. I had been on the vodka most of the day and actually had a pain from it. John and Åine went back and forth over this and eventually she included him in the round. At this point, John looked over at me and said "You have to drink this pint, I can't." That was my first Guinness. After a sip, it eased the pain I had in my tummy and I wondered why I hadn't been drinking it all weekend! Since I have travelled to many countries, drank Guinness in a number of Irish bars and around Ireland but I haven't found anywhere with a pint like the Valley. In the final stages of the drive from Dublin, I salivate at the thought of the pint that will soon follow.

Ambience: 10/10
Cost: $$ (I haven't been in awhile but by memory a pint of Guinness is around EUR4.40, you must try one!)
Food: Now renowned around the county for it's stonebaked pizza, sometimes other food is offered. Always good quality pub grub and great after a day at the beach or a few hours whiled away in the pub. Reasonably priced.
Location: You will need a car to get here. It's located in Dugort on Achill Island and public transport isn't very accessible. There are some taxis on the island.
Toilets: Well maintained and cool on nights where the bar gets very warm.
Overall: If you don't visit here you're missing a genuine hidden gem and my favourite bar in the whole world.


Their own website has more photos, details of upcoming events and information.
/http://www.valley-house.com/

5 places worth a visit on your travels

To me, everywhere is worth visiting once. I have found enjoyment in every place I've been and just because there are places that I won't rush back to doesn't mean that I regret visiting there in the first place. Then there are these places, which are truly special. They might be a little trickier to get to, or you may not have them on your list for a variety of reasons (distance from other places, budget, transport options etc) but I highly recommend (read: suggest you visit or you are missing out!). I either have gone back already, will go back or a little part of my soul will pine for them.

1. Achill Island, Co. Mayo, Ireland. I have raved in previous blog entries about Achill, my favourite place in the whole world. Why should you put Achill on your list? Its scenery will take your breath away, from the craggy  rock formations, many pristine beaches perfect for surfing, kite-surfing or just a swim, magnificent cliffs rising into modest mountains that are well worth a hike, delicious seafood and Irish music sessions in many pubs waiting to serve creamy pints of Guinness. I can't extol the virtues of this island enough. From the Atlantic Drive to Keem Bay, barbecues under the shadow of Slievemore at sunset, a good walk to knock out the cobwebs on Keel beach and settling in at the Valley House for a pint and great tunes - it's hard to beat and I'm sure you'll agree.

Slievemore at sunset

The writers Graham Greene and Heinrich Boll spent time living on the island and many an artist has taken up residence there.

How to get there: Train from Dublin to Castlebar, then 1 hour bumpy bus journey to Achill Sound, or hitch - plenty of friendly locals and travellers pick up on the road from Castlebar to Achill.





2. Trakai, Lithuania. Never heard of it? Probably not but it's fantastic. Only a stone's throw from the capital of Vilnius, which is also worth a visit, Trakai is definitely budget-friendly and worth a visit for it's Gothic castle (with unique architecture for Eastern Europe), the bridge, the maze (yes, a maze you can get lost or found in!), a range of outdoor activities - including sailing and rowing and the fact that it's a national park. It's been quite a few years since I visited (hint: I was a teenager at the time) but it still pops up in my dreams. Grab some local food for a picnic beside the lake. If you wish to do more than a day trip you can get apartments for less than EUR40 a night.

Image from TraveloLithuania.com

How to get there: From Vilnius, there are regular buses every 20 mins or so. There are also trains for the short journey.





3. Koh Chang, Trat Province, Thailand.

Koh Chang is definitely growing in popularity but it's still much cheaper than most of the Thai islands, such as Koh Samui or Phuket. Don't expect the karst formations that you'll find on the Andaman islands, but there are plenty of picture perfect beaches here with far less crowds than the famous spots on other islands. It's pretty hilly and is great to explore (be careful of the wildlife in the jungle) and you can also hop onto other, even less visited islands from there. If you really want the 'backpacker' feel you can stay at Lonely Beach, where the nightlife is anything but lonely. Massages start at around EUR5, accommodation can be as cheap as EUR8 per person sharing (even in a double room) and a wide range of cuisine can be found on the island. I recommend Kai Bae beach, for location and the beach.

Me, a swing, Kai Bae beach.

How to get there: We got burned on our trip because the internet doesn't always tell the truth! Well, information changes, I guess. If you are coming from Bangkok, it is recommended to get to the Ekkamai bus station EARLY (and/or book in advance) and get a bus that leaves before noon. It takes about 4 and a half hours to Trat. Some buses go directly to the pier where boats leave from, others just to Trat and you have to share songtheaws (they resemble pick-up trucks with benches in the back) to the port. The last boat to the island leaves at 7pm. The boat takes about 30 minutes to cross and then you will have to pay about 150bht to get to whichever resort you're staying in.

There are also buses from near Victory Monument in Bangkok to Trat and Koh Chang, they leave hourly but once again, be aware that due to demand there may only be 2 or 3 buses running rather than hourly.

http://iamkohchang.com is a good website if you're planning to travel there.

4. Tarife, Southern Spain. Forget Gibraltor (seriously, it's not a nice place) and go a bit further down the road to the charming town of Tarife, which is also the southernmost tip of Spain. Although it barely gets a mention in guidebooks and isn't the prettiest of port towns, it is a haven for kite surfers and also offers pristine white beaches both on the Mediterranean and Atlantic Oceans (the two meet here) and there are wonderful views across to Morocco. There's the Moorish Castillo de Guzman el bueno fort to visit and the Church of San Mateo plus plenty of lovely tapas places to eat for under EUR10. It is definitely worth a weekend trip if you're interested in geography or history.

Med on the left, Atlantic on the right

How to get there: The nearest airport is Gibraltor, but Malaga is only an 1 1/2 hours away so you can see more of the Costa del Sol before taking in Tarife or plan your trip from there.  The easiest thing is to hire a car (pretty inexpensive - from EUR45 per week) but you can get a bus from Malaga. There are also regular buses from Gibraltor and Algeciras.












5. Kaikoura, South island, New Zealand. Last, but by no means least. There are so many places to get to in New Zealand but I've noticed that this one is sometimes missed. I have no idea why. Kaikoura is known primarily for year round whale watching, and it's absolutely worth it. Although I missed the money shot (the tail raised out of the water) I did so because watching it took my breath away. There are also large seal colonies in the area, fantastic to watch, even from a bus and dusky dolphins out at sea. Even though I visited in peak season, the small town wasn't very busy, which is nice for a break when travelling. You can see a longer post I wrote on a local bar/eatery here.

Sunset on the beach

How to get there: There are regular buses from Picton, which take around 2 and a half hours, whilst buses from Christchurch take only slightly longer and fares are very reasonable (you can get buses from NZD$1 in Christchurch, whilst it's around NZD$15 from Picton).

Kaikoura is not a cheap destination, although if you're already in New Zealand you're probably aware. Still, if you're on a backpacking budget it's probably a good idea to set a little extra aside for the even the basics here.

The walkway at 7am, beautiful mountains in the distance.

Realistically, I could put so many places on this list but these were the ones that I see mentioned least online, that were special to me at the time and still remain in my mind. Where are your places? I'd love to hear so I can add them to my list.

Not Khao-San, other places to eat and drink in Bangkok

The first time I was in Bangkok I was incredibly overwhelmed by the size of the place - the city seems never-ending and if you get up to any heights it stretches out in every direction the eye can see; the river winding through various sky-scrapers and low-lying shacks by the river. The enormity of it is still striking to me now but I've gotten to know another side of the city by now and can thoroughly understand why it offers expats a nice life.

From the Mariott Rooftop, Bangkok goes on forever

An old friend from Dubai, Becky, now calls Bangkok home. We go through long periods of not meeting up and our last meeting outside Thailand was a funny road-trip to Ennis, accompanied by a little green teddy. Yes, Becky and I do have some weird ideas of fun but we also share a very similar sense of humour and a deep bond from sharing some tricky times in Dubai. Becky's place is a far cry from Khao San Road; it's set in a pretty district of Sukhumvit, surrounded by other residences with pools and gyms and up market restaurants nearby.

I'm not a huge fan of enormous cities, probably because the city I come from, Dublin, only has a population of about a million people, which barely competes with the major metropolises of our world.
I like my cities smaller and easy to navigate. Having said that, I'm a big fan of Bangkok's various options of transport - the BTS is cheap and reliable, motor cycle taxis are ubiquitous, taxis themselves are crazy reasonable considering it's a worldwide city with an intolerable traffic problem. You can even take canal boats (not a pastime for hungover backpackers - the stench would shake even the sturdiest constitution) where you might chance upon a dead croc floating in the infected waters, true story - a friend has seen one.

So, to share some of the places I've been and liked in Bangkok, even though I fear giving too much away, it's nice to share with other travellers and for the owners to have patronage of those seeking out a different path.

If you've visited Wat Pho, which certainly is worth it from a historical perspective (It was the first university in Thailand) and to admire the colourful stupas in the courtyard, then you'll appreciate a cool drink or some food nearby. There are a number of options by the river, you can normally get a seat at Eat Sight Story, ESS to watch riverboats go by and enjoy the view of Wat Arun. It is accessed by a soi between two temples. There is also the better known The Deck, which boasts the same views and excellent food, but you may struggle to be seated.

Wat Arun at sunset

Bangkok is developing quite the cafe culture and a great spot for brunch is Gram, on Soi 49 of Sukhumvit. There's not much seating and it's probably to be avoided in the sweatier months but I had a long, lazy lunch there in March and it was very pleasant. They offer all day breakfasts and super smoothies.

I was lucky enough to be invited to Bellino wine bar and boutique, a stunningly picturesque little part of Italy in Bangkok. Go for the chorizo, stay for the reasonably priced and good (finally, good wine in Thailand!) wine.We had a lovely night there for their birthday party.

If you are pining for a bit of trivia, then you can head to pub quiz on Thursday nights at The Pickled Liver, a proper British pub which doesn't feel like it's just off Sukhumvit in Bangkok, a very unassuming joint with good pub grub.

And finally, if you're looking for a quieter Rooftop than Lebua (the rooftop scene's from the Hangover have made it a hotspot), head over to Octave at the Mariott for 360 degree views of the city. It also has great 2 for 1 cocktails between 5pm - 7pm so you can enjoy your sundowners at a more reasonable cost than most of the city.

Sorry Becky, if I've given away some of your secret spots, but not all :)

A Christmas Exile

The weather is outside is… well, considering it's December it's pretty balmy but then I'm in Dubai. This time last year I was home in Ireland (for the first Christmas in 7 years), the year before in Chiang Mai, the year before that Oman… and so on. When you choose an expat/nomadic/travelling life you may consider that Christmas may be spent somewhere else and that maybe it will be a novelty. If you're an expat maybe you've committed to the chaotic challenge of the trek home for the holidays, with thousands of other harried travellers facing queues, delays and arm-breaking bags full of duty-free alcohol.

I've grown accustomed to being away this time of year because although I enjoy travelling, I would rather not set foot in an airport between December 12th and January 5th. I have been repeatedly proven right that what can go wrong will go wrong with travel during these dates… in 2013 I couldn't get OUT of Thailand because even the slow boat down the Mekong was booked up, last year in the early days of January, I experienced 36 hour delays (and horrible attitudes) by Qatar Airways when there was some morning fog in Dubai, and a friend had someone throw up in her hair onboard a flight five years ago during the season… Merry for everyone but her!

I remember my first year in Dubai, presents had to be arranged so far in advance and a lovely cabin crew friend posted them from London for me (at the time there were no direct flights to Dublin), now we have numerous online sites to make that easy. I used to use a prepaid card to call home from a landline, which also meant they had to be home. Now, I can call my family for free, without even a telephone connection. In 2004, I had Christmas dinner in the Dubliners pub in Garhoud with my co-workers before I worked the evening shift serving everyone else theirs at the Irish Village. Things have certainly become easier but Christmas is still about family. I'm lucky that my extended family are spread across the world and grateful each year that cousins, aunts and uncles have invited me into their home to celebrate over the past few years and this year I got to celebrate with a new arrival in my cousins room after seeing my godson on Christmas eve and again on Christmas night. Family comes in many guises; it doesn't mean I miss Mom, Dad and Nickki any less.

It also means I get to learn about and sometime share in other traditions; most Europeans celebrate on Christmas eve, rather than Christmas Day, and it seems that my family have always unknowingly prescribed to this too - we've always had a family dinner and opened presents on Christmas eve, whereas most Irish people are having drinks in their local that night. I lived with a Swedish friend who explained that it was more traditional to have a selection of seafood rather than turkey, ham and stuffing. Even within my country, there were differences: whilst I lived in Kerry, I grew familiar with the tradition of Wren Boys, which I hadn't known growing up in Dublin. Whereas I always seemed to be in some form of transport on St. Stephen's Day (known as Boxing Day to the UK or 26th December) so I could head out to party that night, this year it was all about playing games in my PJ's. In 2013 on the 26th, I was visiting a renowned mountain temple in Thailand. I love the variety that my life and exposure to other cultures brings.

I have no idea where Christmas in 2016 will be spent, hopefully somewhere new and interesting and the idea of still being away is fine with me. I am perfectly content with my nomadic/expat life and as long as it keeps bringing surprises and adventures and often detours from the norm, then I will embrace every second. I hope you all had a wonderful festive season and all the best for 2016.

Part 10: Pub-crawling around the World: Himmel, Lonely Beach, Koh Chang

It was the height of Thai New Year, known as Songkran, we had been sprayed with water all day and we figured we were going to be wet all evening so we donned clean bikinis and headed out to see what Lonely Beach had to offer.

Ting Tong appeared to be the most popular bar on Lonely Beach and we'd stopped in the night before (which ended with me completely sozzled after only one bucket of vodka - what do they put in those buckets?) but we noticed there was a foam party advertised a little way up the street in Himmel Bar.

Himmel Bar is pretty large and at first glance appears a little classier than Ting Tong Bar, because most of it is covered by a roof. There are plenty of seating areas, both outdoor and indoor and an large dance floor, which was already playing host to a small number of patrons when we arrived. It was all feel-good music - a bit of dance, some 90's and 00's hits thrown in for good measure. I seem to remember "I've got 5 on it" and also some Kylie! The bar staff were all friendly and buckets were on special for 150baht, as seems the norm on Lonely Beach. Himmel Bar also offers a variety of shots and cocktails.

My friend Jess and I had picked up some new friends, lone travellers Joe and Anna (I remember travelling alone and people NOT talking to me), in Ting Tong bar and we made some more friends in Himmel Bar before the foam got too thick. We ran into some Spanish guys we had met on the ferry over to the island and there was even an old, bearded dude in a cowboy hat - everything one needs for a crazy night in Thailand. So, with buckets in tow we began venturing to dance in the foam….

Jess got involved!

The night progressed with more and more foam, everyone spinning a little faster, a little wilder…
Jess getting cheeky with everyone that would talk to us and pretty much warning me off any man that approached, although she allowed me brief periods to dance with our new German friend, Joe, when we weren't having friendly foam fights with anyone and everyone in the crowd. Glow sticks and glory straws were being handed out at the bar - somethings are required for a cheesy night out. We also attracted the attention of a Thai lady friend, who was keen on our drinks. At least she was openly keen: Another guy just picked up my bucket and walked off with it. I caught him trying to steal someone else's' later on. Well, there are always people who spoil it for others, it can't be blamed on the bar.

Happy out of the foam

The party continued late into the night, with the foam being topped up on a regular basis. The bar staff were superb when a glass was broken in the foam, going straight in to remove the glass and tend to the one or two people who had sadly cut themselves (thankfully not badly at all). The music was still banging as we strolled off to our guesthouse around the corner around 3.15am.

All in all, it was a really fun night. Himmel bar advertises winter parties and runs special events quite regularly so be sure to catch one of their parties if you're in the area.


Ambience: 10/10 - If you're looking for a party in Koh Chang, you really can't go wrong.
Price: 150bht buckets, shots 100bht. Other drinks range from 100bht upwards.

Food: They offered barbecued food earlier in the evening, so they do food. I can't vouch for it personally.

Location: Soi 2 Lonely Beach, just off the main street in Lonely Beach - very easy to find.
Toilets: There were toilets and they were attended by staff, trying to keep it foam free. Fairly clean.

Overall: A good choice for a party on Lonely Beach, particularly on special nights.

Dancing the night away

Being away and coming back.

I've been intending to write, of course I have, we all have the best intentions…
I didn't… life got in the way…

Having started this blog in July 2012, I couldn't even imagine where life was going to take me in three short years. I've always been a dreamer and I've been pretty good about "doing" but sometimes those dreams seem so elusive. Now, I know they're not. Now I know that you really can do anything - but you can't do everything, unfortunately.

In 2012, I had a great job working in Dubai, I was pretty settled in my lovely Sheikh Zayed Road apartment and I got to travel around 3-4 times a year, sometimes more as it was easy to hop to Bahrain, Qatar and Oman. I had a good life and I was grateful for it but I absolutely yearned for more. Luckily, I was surrounded both personally and professionally by people who encouraged me to take chances, who helped me believe that I could do other things, primarily write and travel. So, I did.

In 2013, I left my comfortable life, ghost-wrote a book, penned 4 plays commissioned for the stage, volunteered for charity in Sri Lanka and visited many more other countries that aroused feelings in me I wasn't aware were possible. I didn't know it was possible to fall in love so often (with different places), to spend 12 days not actually speaking to anyone in English (with very few words of their languages to help me!), to eat bugs without gagging and to live without fear. Everything challenged me and it became very addictive. The first day of 2014 began in Chiang Mai, Thailand and ended in Luang Prabang, Laos; a month later I was in Australia. Travelling is a bubble - I was the happiest I had ever been with my everyday life, but everything else went on without me. Given time back in Ireland mid-year, I had time to review what I wanted next and I realised that I wanted some stability. I loved the buzz of moving from place to place but my means weren't endless. I also like building friendships and although travel leads you to people everyday - there's a slim possibility that you'll meet any of them ever again. I thought Chiang Mai would be a wonderful base to live, I had immediately identified with the place when my bus arrived there and yet thought modern life would be accessible enough there.

July 2013 took me back to Chiang Mai where I quickly found a great apartment, a part time job teaching English at Chiang Mai University and a whole host of fantastic new friends with their own experiences to share. It is a brilliant place to live, with enough comforts of the international world mixed with truly Thai experiences. I learnt more Thai in one year, than Arabic from years in the Middle East. My little soi (lane) felt like a community, the Thai people waved, wai'd or gave me a "hi" everyday, and I had wonderful street food to choose from on either side of my small apartment block. I lived in the Old City with a view of the mountains, I travelled to the university 4 days a week in a songtheaw (red truck). I wrote and edited the rest of my time outside teaching and most of the time it was utter bliss.

With real life responsibilities (my sister's wedding, bills etc) interrupting from time to time, I realised that staying in Chiang Mai longterm would also have it's price. I had met people who couldn't leave, whether they wanted to or not. They didn't have the option to travel home to Europe or the U.S, because regardless of saving in Thailand - that money doesn't go very far in our Western home countries. Having lived in the Middle East I was used to having that disposable income, but I knew it meant sacrificing time off, an easier lifestyle and certainly the wonderful Thai culture that I had grown used to. In a way I think something else intervened (or maybe I sent it out to come back?) and I was offered three different roles back in Dubai; I even had an opportunity to choose. Once again, life showed me that I'm a lucky girl (I work hard for it!) with the options I had.

So, I am back in Dubai. It was hard to leave Chiang Mai, but easy to come back here, if that makes any sense. I'm trying to be an adult, trying to do the right thing but also giving myself new opportunities and demanding more of myself. I learnt a lot in the past few years and I'm happier with what I've achieved. I know more about what's important to me (primarily family, friends and then travel) and what I'm willing to sacrifice to get it and I hope that road leads me back to Thailand and that I'll have figured out a way to make it all viable.

With all the notes I have on various places, I still intend to log the memories but I thought I'd explain a little about how much my life has changed and my thoughts on that, particularly as this has been a record for me to review from time to time. We're all on different journeys: the places are just different - sometimes they are physical and sometimes they are mental.

I hope my fellow travellers that I met along the way get to read this and hopefully empathise with some of the feelings I've had during these past few years.

Rotorua - Not just a place with an unusual odour ....

Yes, when stepping off the bus in Rotorua, the first thing you will notice is the sulphuric scent on the air. It's a little startling at first and although you won't quite get used to it (well, certainly not in a day - the length I spent there), it's not terribly unpleasant. It's unusual, but the geothermal hotbed that causes the smell is definitely something to explore.

Rotorua is classed as a city, but I would call it a town. I found it rather quaint, set beside the lake of the same name with low-rise buildings. We were dropped off outside the local iSite, NZ tourist offices. The staff were super helpful and stored my backpack for the day for a small fee (It closes at 7pm though and my bus was at 11.15pm). After getting some info, I headed out to Te Puia, a Maori Cultural Park not far from town. I managed to get a bus just around the corner from the iSite and I was at the centre in less than twenty minutes.

Once more, the friendliness of the Kiwi people was displayed by the woman selling tickets. She asked me lots of questions about travelling solo as a woman and she said I was very brave. Then, she gave me half price tickets to the Maori concert which takes place a couple of times daily!

I decided to have a wander around myself first before taking a guided tour. One of the most important things about Te Puia is that it's a place of learning and preservation. Customs of the Maori tribe are in use and taught to Maori students from tribes across New Zealand from weaving to stone carving. Thus, all the carvings onsite are truly Maori and faithful to time-honoured tradition.

During the first part of the tour we were brought up to see the famous Pohutu geyser. This was truly a sight to behold: going off approximately every hour and lasting for upto twenty minutes, this is the largest active geyser in the Southern Hemisphere and it certainly gets your attention. I was mesmerised by it. A natural wonder of the world. The photograph doesn't do justice to how it dwarfs you and the heat can be felt from 10 metres away!

There's quite a lot of geothermal activity here, covering 60 hectares, with over 500 geothermal spots. Even on a cold day, I can't imagine you'd feel it here; there's steam rising from everywhere!

After an hour or so of exploring the geothermal landscape and marvelling at hot springs (that are far too hot to bathe in), we returned to Te aronui a rua, the meeting house where the concert would take place.

A woman came out to greet us, with the typical "Kia Ora!" and advised us on the etiquette of the show we were about to witness and be a part of. A man in the audience was chosen as chief, and we all approached the house behind him, as is customary.

They took us through songs and stories, displaying dances and the infamous haka (with some volunteers from the audience!). Some of the strapping young Maori men weren't hard on the eye either! It was great show and well worth the price of the ticket. I'd be really interested in going to the night time show if I ever return.

The Haka

After visiting the word carving and weaving workshops, I took my last wander around the landscape part of the park and headed back into town. I was very lucky to be picked up by French and German girls who had a car rented for the day and who I'd spoken briefly to at Te Puia.

I grabbed some fish and chips for NZ$12 at a quiet cafe on the main street, about two blocks from the iSite, although I can't remember it's name. It was also conveniently close to my next port of call, The Polynesian Spa. I got an unlimited pass for the Adult Pools for NZ$25 and headed in to bathe myself softer than a furry blanket. It's truly blissful in there with a variety of pools to choose from and temperatures ranging from 37 deg Celsius right upto 42 deg. I didn't stay in that one too long!

The Priest Pools, with the lake in the background

My favourite pool was the Priest Spa pool right by the lake, so birds were flying by and providing a chorus as the sun went down. It was a real treat to bathe in the hot spring waters and wonderful to ease the muscles after a few bus rides.

After touring the seven pools a few times, I decided to grab a snack and head upto the iSite to wait for my bus. Rotorua is absolutely deserted at night so there was nowhere to wait and I didn't see a bar nearby where I could have chilled for an hour before the overnight bus to Wellington arrived. Thus I was a very weary traveller boarding for my long journey (8 hours) to my next stop.

A Liebster Award for Lilirishtravels!

Another lovely travel blogger (check out www.padthaiandprozac.com) nominated me for a Liebster award; an award typically meant for new bloggers to encourage and further their success, but since she's new to my blog, and I am still eligible by level of followers. It's always wonderful to be recognised by your peers and I'm very grateful Jenn!

This award brings with it some conditions - primarily posting the award to your blog (here!!), thanking the person who nominated you and linking to their blog - see above, the witty, wonderful and sometimes weird ramblings of Jenn on www.padthaiandprozac.com (one of the best blog names in my opinion) and then the following:

Write 11 random facts about yourself
Despite being a water-baby and avid explorer, I have yet to earn my PADI. For shame. It's just something else to add to the bucket list.
My front teeth are no longer my own, having been knocked out in a scooter accident earlier this year.
I have overcome a phobia of rats by travelling and living in SE Asia.
I don't like walking for no reason - I'll hike up mountains, walk 9km home or run 26 miles to a party (some Irish will get this!) but I don't understand just walking in normal surroundings for no good reason.
I have a stork mark birthmark, on my forehead, which only shows up when I'm really upset and makes me resemble a creature from Alien.
I can't meditate. The closest I get to free-ing my mind is when wake-boarding.
I overcame my fear of heights on 10th February 2014 by jumping out of a plane at 15, 000ft. I enjoyed it far more than I thought and I will definitely do it again.
When I was a teenager, I toyed with the idea of becoming an aeronautical engineer.
I am pretty strong mentally but not as strong as people think.
I honestly see the best in people and it's hard to change my mind.
I prefer to spend my money on travel rather than anything else.

Nominate 11 bloggers who have less than 200 followers and you feel are deserving of this award:
11! Not sure I can! Here are the candidates who immediately come to mind:
www.goodbyevirginiahelloworld.com - I met Ansley whilst travelling in New Zealand and then again in Chiang Mai - her photos are wonderful and she's made me put some things on the must-do list.
www.marketofeden.blogspot.com I discovered this blog before I moved to Chiang Mai. Rather Asia-centric but very helpful and I like her style.
www.aprilinwanderlust.blogspot.ie I actually met April by chance after moving to Chiang Mai, but had read her blog previously. April takes great photos of her travels and she has some wonderful stories of her travels to share.
limesandstars.blogspot.ie Nickki blogs about food, products and lifestyle. She has some excellent healthy recipies and a great outlook on life.
I can't think of any right now. I will update this, also feel free to post your blog in the comments.

Answer 11 questions set by the person who nominated you:
Most hated song and why? Cotton-Eyed Joe. Isn't it obvious why?
Monsters Inc or Toy Story? This probably isn't fair as I've never seen Toy Story but I do love Monsters Inc.
5 Things I can't live without - Fruit - pretty much any fruit, I love it. Lip balm - again not picky on the brand. Something shiny - I wear costume jewellery all the time. Whatsapp - I communicate with my friend Lisa on an almost daily basis and she changes country often, I also use it for almost everyone else in my life. Music - To soothe, excite or just accompany, music does it all for me.
If I could only choose one, would it be living in extreme heat or extreme cold - probably extreme heat, I've already done that in Dubai.
Curry sauce or gravy on chips/fries - Curry sauce, never gravy.
Best hangover cure - A big dirty fry-up, OJ and tea.
Favourite place I've travelled so far - New Zealand. Astonishing and truly awesome place.
1 bottle of expensive bubbles or 2 cheap: 1 bottle of expensive, in this case quality not quantity.
Favourite movie as a child: The Little Mermaid.
Strapless bra or Halterneck - Strapless.
Down to your last ten dollars - what do you spend it on? A BLT or a glass of wine.

11 questions for those I've nominated:
How do you spend your average Sunday?
Favourite dish/food?
Best gig you've ever been to?
The longest you have ever stayed awake and why?
What does the last text/line/whatsapp on your phone say?
Do you know anyone who has been in prison - why?
Best restaurant you have ever been to?
What is number 1 on your bucket list?
Tell me something I can cook with less than 5 ingredients?
Where was the last place you visited?
Funny travel story?

Part 9 - Pub-crawling around the World - Edible Jazz, Pai, Thailand

See - a little too dedicated to kitsch backpacker-ville-ness

I headed to Pai in March 2014 after many recommendations from friends. Although I can't say that Pai blew me away as it seemed to do others, it is a peaceful place to visit and seeing the canyon, waterfalls etc is a lovely way to spend a few days. It kind of takes itself a little seriously as a backpacker haunt, and the whole place appears to cater for this, which I found a little odd, but I did come across Edible Jazz and that made quite a bit of difference.

I wouldn't have found this place only a fellow traveller told me about it before I visited Pai. It's set off one of the night market walking streets so I wandered down after some street food and a delicious rotee.

The place itself is quite rustic, there is some seating and hammocks off to one side (lucky if you get those - I never saw them free!) but you can also sit at low tables, on cushions or mats on the floor. I ordered my vodka and coke and sat on a bench at a table, where I was joined by a friendly Malaysian girl. We had arrived just in time for the live music, which turned out to be a treat.

Pai seems to be visited by many musicians, which is never a bad thing, and people can pitch up for open mic night or some seem to get residencies in this place (and I'm sure others). That night a gentleman called Tik was playing, he started with a few acoustic numbers without vocals, and he was a pretty good guitarist. When he started to sing, I was pleasantly surprised, as for some reason I didn't think he could! He prefers a style like Bob Dylan, but his voice was more tuneful and I enjoyed his versions of Jackson Brown and Beatles numbers amongst others. I tired out quickly that first night after hiking in the canyon and the music was lulling me to sleep so I decided to return the following night a little later, to enjoy more of the music.

Tik was playing again, which was great, and this time I sat on the floor at one of the low tables, where I was joined by a purple cat (surreal things happen when you travel), he obviously was enjoying the tunes too.

See, a purple cat, no hallucinatory drugs required.

The only bum note on this night was being the subject of some smart remarks by a girl at the bar, not a member of staff. When I ordered my vodka, she suggested that I don't like to taste my drinks because I ordered it with coke and she had some comments on my hair too. "Who can afford to get highlights when they are travelling? Mustn't be spending it on the good things to see." I'm not sure why I was a target at that particular moment, but I sensed she saw me as some competition as she eagerly swooped on any unsuspecting male as they approached the bar and hungrily eyed up those who sat far away. It certainly takes all types. If you do happen to know a German girl with attitude who was passing through Pai in early March, do tell her I said hi.

Tik, doing what he does

Shortly afterwards, a quiet woman from behind the bar came out and pulled up a stool beside Tik. When she started to sing, I was taken aback. I have never heard a voice like this, except in recordings. She had that wonderful, rich tone like Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holiday. It was such a surprise but a wonderful one!

Later, I actually got to have a chat to Tik and spent the rest of the time with his sister and her boyfriend.  Tik regaled with some stories of playing around the world and invited me back for open mic night. I'm pretty sure he's gone now, but maybe I'll revisit Pai again for open mic night ;)

If you visit Pai, put this on your list. Chilled and Tuneful.


Ambience: 9/10 - The place has hammocks. It wins on this alone.
Price: 100bht vodka & mixer, 60bht beer (pretty reasonable)

Food: I didn't partake of the food, given that there was street food in abundance nearby but my friends did and it looked pretty good.

Location: Chaisongkram road, just off the night market street.
Toilets: Pretty rustic, and you have to leave the bar to the left to get to them, but clean and with toilet paper. Actual toilets, as opposed to squat toilets.

Overall: A lovely, unpretentious place to while away a few hours, strange, judgemental traveller types notwithstanding ;)

Visa-run from Chiang Mai-Vientiane - taking my time, making it leisurely.....

I am aware that there are many blogs on this topic, however when I was looking, I found none posted after July 2014 - when visa rules changed, and none by Europeans, which I happen to be. Many focus on getting in and out of Laos pretty quickly but I decided (after a really enjoyable time in Luang Prabang at the beginning of 2014) to spend a few days in Vientiane, and also explore the different transport options in doing this particular journey.

Sunset over the Mekong, in Vientiane

I left on a Saturday afternoon from Chiang Mai. I decided to fly to Udon Thani one way as my tourist visa was expiring that night at midnight. I booked the flight about 4 days previously for 2, 000bht (approx. EUR48 right now), you can get them cheaper or you can fly to Vientiane for about 9, 000bht more, if you're feeling flush. The flight was nice and easy, free checked luggage with Nok Air and out of the airport within about fifteen minutes. I had been told to get across Udon Thani to the bus station and get a bus to Nong Khai and then from there to the border, but I was offered a mini-bus directly to the border for 200Bht (EUR4.80) and that seemed far less hassle for a saving of what would amount to 50bht. I met a fellow Chiang Mai dweller on the mini-bus, which proved to make the whole trip easier and more enjoyable.

We were dropped right at the border. It's pretty easy to leave Thailand, but I had a hairy moment as I'd lost my departure card. I cajoled a little (with my absolutely minimal Thai) and the guard gave me another. I don't really understand the departure card - as the stamp for entry is in my passport so they know when I came in? Anyhow, there are many things I don't understand! Once you're through you get the bus across the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge (20bht/50cents) and arrive at the Laos border.

As it was a Saturday evening, there was no one else around and I had come prepared money-wise. For Europeans, it's usually $35 (approx. EUR27) for a Laos visa, but add $1 for weekends or after 6pm. After 6pm on a weekend seems a great time to do it, and I was happy to pay the $1 extra. Note that you can also pay in Thai baht, but you pay 1500bht (approx. EUR36) so there's a nice little surcharge on there, for whoever it is that prefers the US Dollar. Also, have a couple of passport photos handy. They say one but in SE Asia, laws are apt to change. The forms don't take long and are processed within about five minutes.

Vientiene's version of the ubiquitous signpost

My new friend, John, had forgotten to go to the bank back in Thailand, due to some silly law his bank had (as I said - many things I don't understand) so I said I would wait for him at the Laos border to get to Vientiane together. It also meant I had the time to people-watch, one of my favourite pastimes. I deduced that toilet paper must be cheaper in Thailand, as people seemed to be bringing stacks of it (I mean, hundreds of rolls!) across the border, along with various foam packaging, for restaurants I guess. The border got much more crowded around 8pm and there was a queue of cars when John returned, about an hour later.

We headed into the city by minivan. If you share, expect to pay no more than 200bht per person, but try and get the songtheaws, some have bargained down to 100bht per person. Thai baht is freely accepted here, even preferred to kip, the local currency.

I had chosen www.vientianestarhotel.com as my lodgings, and they were perfectly adequate. The owner and staff were really friendly and helpful, the rooms were really clean (and bed-bug free - bed bugs are a huge problem in Vientiane), as were the bathrooms, and they have a cool courtyard decorated with graffiti for drinks or breakfast. It's also a pretty good location, around the corner from the Mekong. John and I headed around to Via Via, an Italian restaurant, where we stuffed our faces with pide (Turkish pizza), hummus, falafel and salad. I also had a couple of mojitos, as it was Saturday night. We also had a couple of Laos whiskey (more like rum) in the courtyard of the hotel with some fellow travellers.

I didn't sleep well - not the hotels' fault, my usual problems with sleeping - so I rose late and went off exploring the town. It is a sleepy place and there isn't that much to do, but the perks are definitely the food. For breakfast fare, or indeed lunch, try The Scandinavian Bakery. It is substantially cheaper than some of the other French places, and offers a variety of breads and breakfast sets. I paid 27, 000kip for breakfast (about 110bht) compared to 50, 000kip in Le Banneton and I got more bang for my buck too. If you like wine, there are quite a few wine cellars near the American embassy, with a much better selection than Thailand. Also, explore the side streets for great examples of French architecture in the houses, and stop off at Patuxai, Vientiane's nod to the Arc de Triomphe.

A window near the top of Patuxai

Next day, bright and early we headed to the embassy, reaching there at 6.25am. Mel spoke some Thai, so she negotiated that the five of us would be taken by songthaew for approx 40bht each/10, 000kip. There was no one else at the embassy, but people began to arrive about ten minutes after us. By 8.30am, when the gate opened, I was told the queue stretched about 1km down and around the block. Tip: Download the application form free from www.thaivisa.com the night before, or pay 80bht outside the embassy to get one! When we entered, although we were first, we didn't have our forms completed, so we ended up being between 30-60. Not a big deal, as the lines move fast. However, when I reached the guy, he told me my application was incomplete/incorrect but wouldn't tell me why. As I had seen my friends, Lauren and Simon, have theirs accepted two queues over, Mel, Rica and myself simply moved to that queue and had our applications accepted there. There is no point in arguing with the officials - as we found out. If they say no, then arguing the toss is simply un-Thai, they won't give in as it would mean losing face. Then, we entered the main building, paid 2, 000bht and were given a receipt to return the next day. It's all quite confusing, no one tells you what is going on, you can simply go with the flow.

Success! Non-B visas acquired!

After more sightseeing, and a lovely dinner by the Mekong, we returned at a more reasonable hour of 12.30pm the following day, to pick up our visas. The embassy doesn't open until 1.30pm but they started giving out numbers at 1pm. Visas completed, we headed out for some lunch and then the long journey back. I had decided to join my fellow teachers on the overnight bus. We booked one for 1100 bht pps, a songtheaw picked us up at the embassy and brought us to the bus station outside Vientiane, where we boarded a bus to the border. We had to pay another 45bht to exit Laos (again, why?) and got back on the same bus. At the Thai border, they checked our passports, we entered Thailand, returned to our bus again which took us as far as Udon Thani. There, we were met by tuk-tuks which brought us across town to another bus station, to take the overnight bus. We had about half an hour to eat and use the toilets before we boarded our bus to Chiang Mai. Onboard, we were given blankets, a snack and water and about 10pm the air-con was turned on, although it wasn't great. It was a bumpy ride and I slept fitfully, although better than most of my friends. We arrived back at Chiang Mai bus station around 6.40am, exhausted but relieved.
Breakdown below.

Type of Cost	Description	Price (THB)	Price (EUR)/(USD)
Travel	Flight	2, 231	Approx. EUR58/USD73
Travel	Bus to Border	200	Approx. EUR5/USD 6.35
Travel	Bus across F/Bridge	20	Approx. 50cent/65cent
Visa	Laos Visa	1, 500*	EUR 28.40/USD 36
Food	Dinner at Via Via	400	EUR 9.85/USD 13.50
Accomodation	Vientiane Star – 3n	1, 760	EUR 44/USD 56
Food	Le Banneton	200bht	EUR5/USD 6.35
Food	Scandinavian Bakery	110	EUR2.80/USD 3.55
Drinks	Drinks	240	EUR7/USD 8.90
Travel	Songthaews x 3	120	EUR 3/USD 3.75
Visa	Thai Non-B Imm.	2, 000	EUR 50/USD 65
Food	Scandinavian Bakery	110	EUR2.80/USD 3.55
Food	BBQ on the Mekong	240	EUR 7/USD 8.90
Travel	Bus back to CM	1, 100	EUR 27.50/USD 35
Food	Dinner in Udon Thani	40	EUR 1/USD 1.25
TOTAL		10, 271	Approx. 252/USD 318

Overall, it was a nice trip and could have been worse. I do recommend not rushing it, as you will be less stressed. Take in the Mekong, get some nice French food (and wine!) and make sure you have all your paperwork. Note that the tourist visa costs the same as the Non-B.